Collecting Rc Cola Sports Cans 1977-1978
RC Cola issued cans with sports personalities on them in 1977 and 1978. Have some in the attic? Here's more on this piece of disco-era sports memorabilia!
For bored American youth, it was something to do while the adults were busy at the disco. Royal Crown (RC in the pop culture vernacular) jazzed up its soda cans with baseball and football players in the late 1970s. Collecting them was a messy, sometimes frustrating experience.
It began in 1977 when RC put together a set of 70 baseball player cans. The cans weren't numbered so you really had no idea how many comprised a set until you had a LOT of them. Once you weren't finding any new ones, you could pretty much figure your set was complete. Some collectors opened them from the bottom, trying to preserve whatever "value" they may have had. Others were happy to scrounge through the garbage cans and grab whatever cans thirst-satisfied folks had just discarded. Among the players in the set are several Hall of Famers including Johnny Bench, George Brett, Lou Brock, Rod Carew, Joe Morgan, Jim Palmer, Pete Rose, Mike Schmidt, Tom Seaver, Carl Yastrzemski and Robin Yount. An individual can of these players sells today for $5-10. A can of a common player can be had for $1-3, sometimes less in quantity.
That fall RC created an even bigger challenge. The company moved on to football players but this time they regionalized their set. Fans in the Upper Midwest got only players on the Packers, Vikings, Lions, Bears, Browns, Bengals, and Steelers. Those in the East got teams based there and so on. Approximately 100 cans were issued, including the most valuable, a can of a young Walter Payton that now carries a value of $15-20. Other subjects included Terry Bradshaw, John Riggins and Joe Theismann. Common cans run about $3-5 each with stars about double that. The grocery stores sometimes had a poster available listing all of the regional can subjects.
During the winter, the company made a brief and unspectacular foray into basketball, issuing a few basketball cans. This issue faded so quickly, there is no known checklist available.
Then came RC's last hurrah. In 1978, the company followed up it's successful baseball promotion with a 100-can issue of players distributed nationally. This time, the cans were numbered and again, there were an impressive number of top quality stars. Many from the prior year, but also cans of Reggie Jackson, Steve Carlton, Willie McCovey and the crown jewel, Nolan Ryan. A Ryan can today is worth $40-75 in good condition according to the Standard Catalog of Baseball Memorabilia.
RC lives on but the days of sports cans died quickly. Bad news for collectors who loved the chase but good news for Moms sick of dusting them and for Dads who needed the basement shelf space!
Saturday, January 31, 2009
Friday, January 30, 2009
Building A Model Rocket
Building A Model Rocket
Model rocketry is a fun, safe, inexpensive hobby. Build one for yourself on a miniature scale.
Model rocketry is a fun hobby that is very safe when done correctly. When building your own model rocket, it is safest and easiest to use a pre-made kit.
It is possible to design a rocket, but for safety NAR, National Association of Rocketry, guidelines should be observed. Building a rocket from a kit is a fun and inexpensive way to ensure safety.
Estes and Aerotech are two of the main companies that sell model rocket kits. They range in price from $3 or $4 to hundreds of dollars. They also vary greatly in size. Some rockets are five inches, and some can be as tall as several feet. Rockets can also perform a variety of functions. There is one that can take a picture at the apex of its flight, and there are several that allow you to place a small item in a payload bay. Most rockets, however, simply go through four phases, launch, flight, ejection, and landing. To build a model rocket you will need several materials, depending on the kit you select, including a hobby knife, craft glue, model (plastic) glue, sand paper, ruler, pencil, and a paper towel. The pre-made kits will include specific guidelines that explain how to build the model.
There are several important parts to a well-constructed rocket. The rocket must have a launch lug, which is a guide shaped like a thin straw that helps the rocket fly straight up. The rocket will also usually have three or four fins that are spaced evenly around the body. These fins will stabilize the rocket in flight so that it will not spin out of control. It is important to make sure the fins are secured correctly.
The rocket nose cone should be attached to the body by a shock cord, but it should be easily removable from the rocket body. During the ejection phase, the nose cone will fly off the top of the body and will pull a streamer or a parachute out of the body to aid in the recovery of the rocket. Almost all rockets are designed for multiple flights, providing that you do not lose or damage your rocket.
To avoid damaging your rocket make sure that you have the correct engine. The pre-made kit generally lists the engines that are compatible with your rocket. Rocket engines are filled with solid rocket fuel that is ignited by an electrical impulse from a detonator. After burning all of the rocket fuel, the engine fires a charge into the rocket body that blows the nose cone off and enables the recovery system. The engines are made in many sizes to accommodate the different types of rockets. They have varying levels of power as well. For instance, the lighter the rocket, the less power you want the engine to have. If you use a powerful engine with a light rocket, you will probably lose your rocket. After having built your rocket, you are now ready to launch. You will need a launch pad and a detonator.
To successfully recover the rocket you need to insert several sheets of recovery wadding into the body tube to protect the recovery device from the ejection charge. After packing the recovery device and replacing the nose cone on the rocket, slip the rocket's launch lug over the launch pad's metal guide rod. You must then secure an igniter so that it touches the propellant inside of the rocket engine, and attach the detonator lead clips to the igniter to form a complete circuit. Your detonator should have at least a fifteen foot lead so you will be a safe distance away from the launch pad. When you launch your rocket make sure you are a safe distance from the pad. Do not launch your rocket on a windy day because not only could you lose your rocket, but you compromise safety. Make sure your launch site is clear of trees because rockets can be difficult if not impossible to recover from them. It will be easy to recover if you have a friend help watch the course of the rocket flight. Model rocketry is a fun, safe, and inexpensive hobby.
Model rocketry is a fun, safe, inexpensive hobby. Build one for yourself on a miniature scale.
Model rocketry is a fun hobby that is very safe when done correctly. When building your own model rocket, it is safest and easiest to use a pre-made kit.
It is possible to design a rocket, but for safety NAR, National Association of Rocketry, guidelines should be observed. Building a rocket from a kit is a fun and inexpensive way to ensure safety.
Estes and Aerotech are two of the main companies that sell model rocket kits. They range in price from $3 or $4 to hundreds of dollars. They also vary greatly in size. Some rockets are five inches, and some can be as tall as several feet. Rockets can also perform a variety of functions. There is one that can take a picture at the apex of its flight, and there are several that allow you to place a small item in a payload bay. Most rockets, however, simply go through four phases, launch, flight, ejection, and landing. To build a model rocket you will need several materials, depending on the kit you select, including a hobby knife, craft glue, model (plastic) glue, sand paper, ruler, pencil, and a paper towel. The pre-made kits will include specific guidelines that explain how to build the model.
There are several important parts to a well-constructed rocket. The rocket must have a launch lug, which is a guide shaped like a thin straw that helps the rocket fly straight up. The rocket will also usually have three or four fins that are spaced evenly around the body. These fins will stabilize the rocket in flight so that it will not spin out of control. It is important to make sure the fins are secured correctly.
The rocket nose cone should be attached to the body by a shock cord, but it should be easily removable from the rocket body. During the ejection phase, the nose cone will fly off the top of the body and will pull a streamer or a parachute out of the body to aid in the recovery of the rocket. Almost all rockets are designed for multiple flights, providing that you do not lose or damage your rocket.
To avoid damaging your rocket make sure that you have the correct engine. The pre-made kit generally lists the engines that are compatible with your rocket. Rocket engines are filled with solid rocket fuel that is ignited by an electrical impulse from a detonator. After burning all of the rocket fuel, the engine fires a charge into the rocket body that blows the nose cone off and enables the recovery system. The engines are made in many sizes to accommodate the different types of rockets. They have varying levels of power as well. For instance, the lighter the rocket, the less power you want the engine to have. If you use a powerful engine with a light rocket, you will probably lose your rocket. After having built your rocket, you are now ready to launch. You will need a launch pad and a detonator.
To successfully recover the rocket you need to insert several sheets of recovery wadding into the body tube to protect the recovery device from the ejection charge. After packing the recovery device and replacing the nose cone on the rocket, slip the rocket's launch lug over the launch pad's metal guide rod. You must then secure an igniter so that it touches the propellant inside of the rocket engine, and attach the detonator lead clips to the igniter to form a complete circuit. Your detonator should have at least a fifteen foot lead so you will be a safe distance away from the launch pad. When you launch your rocket make sure you are a safe distance from the pad. Do not launch your rocket on a windy day because not only could you lose your rocket, but you compromise safety. Make sure your launch site is clear of trees because rockets can be difficult if not impossible to recover from them. It will be easy to recover if you have a friend help watch the course of the rocket flight. Model rocketry is a fun, safe, and inexpensive hobby.
Thursday, January 29, 2009
Collecting World Series Programs
Collecting World Series Programs
The most popular types of baseball memorabilia to collect are World Series programs. These souvenir publications from sports' most storied event are historic and valuable.
It's the one souvenir baseball fans have trouble doing without. "You can't tell the players without a program!" shout program sellers at ballgames every season. That's true. It's also true that World Series programs are one item that pique the interest of today's sports memorabilia collectors.
The World Series began in 1903 and with the exception of the strike-plagued 1994 season, the American and National Leagues have battled for year-ending supremacy ever since.
Not surprisingly, programs from the early days of the Series carry the most value. A 1903 program from the Boston vs Pittsburgh series sells for $15-30,000! Condition, of course, is vital to value. Many scorecards or programs were folded in half and stuck in a pocket, sat on, or used to shield a head from raindrops. Those that were cared for and stored away from the elements retain their condition and their value.
Until 1974, each participating team produced its own Series program. Therefore, there are two programs for each year from 1903-1973 and just one when baseball took over the book's publication. Aside from the early programs, one of the more valuable editions is the 1919 "Black Sox" program. The year the Chicago White Sox were accused of throwing games for payments from gamblers remains a popular topic and the program from the games in Chicago sells for $5-10,000. The Cincinnati version is worth about half that in nice condition.
Programs from the 1970s to today can be found for less than $50.
The most popular types of baseball memorabilia to collect are World Series programs. These souvenir publications from sports' most storied event are historic and valuable.
It's the one souvenir baseball fans have trouble doing without. "You can't tell the players without a program!" shout program sellers at ballgames every season. That's true. It's also true that World Series programs are one item that pique the interest of today's sports memorabilia collectors.
The World Series began in 1903 and with the exception of the strike-plagued 1994 season, the American and National Leagues have battled for year-ending supremacy ever since.
Not surprisingly, programs from the early days of the Series carry the most value. A 1903 program from the Boston vs Pittsburgh series sells for $15-30,000! Condition, of course, is vital to value. Many scorecards or programs were folded in half and stuck in a pocket, sat on, or used to shield a head from raindrops. Those that were cared for and stored away from the elements retain their condition and their value.
Until 1974, each participating team produced its own Series program. Therefore, there are two programs for each year from 1903-1973 and just one when baseball took over the book's publication. Aside from the early programs, one of the more valuable editions is the 1919 "Black Sox" program. The year the Chicago White Sox were accused of throwing games for payments from gamblers remains a popular topic and the program from the games in Chicago sells for $5-10,000. The Cincinnati version is worth about half that in nice condition.
Programs from the 1970s to today can be found for less than $50.
Wednesday, January 28, 2009
Fantasy Baseball Tips And Advice
Fantasy Baseball Tips And Advice
Successfully draft and manage a fantasy baseball team. Winning tips to make you a contender in your league.
Fantasy baseball is a fabulous and fun hobby for any baseball fan. Being a contender in your league makes the game even more fun. The only way to do this is to manage your team with optimum effectiveness. In order to be a successful manager, you must forget about allegiance to your favorite teams and players. By doing so you will be able to manage your fantasy baseball team much like successful managers and general managers in Major League Baseball.
Your first responsibility as a manager will be to make your draft picks. You will want to be as well informed as possible when choosing the players that will make up your team. The best way to analyze prospects is to refer to baseball preview issues available from periodicals such as Sports Illustrated, The Sporting News and Sport. Other good sources can be found at on the internet sites of CNNSI, ESPN, CBS Sportsline and Fox Sports. These magazines and websites offer a wealth of valuable information and statistics.
When using such resources do not rely too heavily on how the player performed the season before. Take into consideration whether or not players were injured. Often times players will be overlooked in the draft because they are ranked very low. These rankings will sometimes reflect the fact that they spent a good part of the previous season injured. However, be careful not to pick those up who are historically prone to chronic injury. You will want to keep a close eye on these "injured' players during Spring Training. If they perform well and remain consistently healthy before the season, you may want to consider drafting them.
At the same time be cautious of other players' performance during Spring Training, as it may not be indicative of how they will perform during the regular season. One must remember that batters are often facing inexperienced pitchers and pitchers are often facing inexperienced batters. Also, many batters and pitchers are using this time to experiment with their perspective batting stances or pitches. There is one important question you must ask yourself when relying on Spring Training performance: "How often has Spring Training play been an accurate gauge to measure regular season performance?"
While Spring Training play does not always suggest regular season performance, remember to be weary of "star" players who are quickly reaching the twilight of their careers. It is true that they will in all likelihood end up being Hall of Fame members, but you need consistent, quality play to be a contender in your fantasy baseball league. You should especially avoid these kind of players if you are in a league where you purchase players and have a salary cap to maintain. "Old" stars demand high salaries that only result in negligible results. This tends to be especially true when it comes to "old" pitchers. On the same note; do not waste money or draft picks on "headliner" players that are newsworthy only because they hit homeruns. While these players are sought after by Major League Baseball general managers who want to sell tickets, they are of little use to you in your quest to attain the maximum amount of fantasy points. These "headliners" generally strike out a lot and are not very reliable fielders; their kind of performance will only result negative fantasy points.
While homerun hitters will end up causing you to lose points, pitchers can often do the same unless you are very careful how you play them. Your pitchers can be your greatest asset or your biggest downfall. When drafting your pitchers take into consideration their ERA and their health. If their ERA is high, but they still have substantial wins, stay away from them. If this is the case, their wins are probably a product of the skill of their offense, rather than their prowess as a pitcher. Look for pitchers with low ERAs who have the wear with all to go the distance. Generally, in fantasy baseball scoring, the more innings they pitch, the more points you will receive. Avoid pictures who are returning from a surgery or an injury. Often times it will take them some time to readjust themselves when coming off an injury. This kind of readjustment will often lose you points. Also, if you participate in a league that gives you an allotted amount of starts for your pitcher then you will end up wasting your starts. This is because pitchers that are coming off an injury usually pitch less innings during their readjustment.
An important variable to consider when deciding whether or not to play a pitcher is the team they are facing and what pitcher they are up against. For instance, if your pitcher, who is 4 and 2 and gives up five runs a game is up against a pitcher who is 6 and 0 and only gives up one run a game, it is a good idea to bench your pitcher. Your pitcher may be good, but there is no reason you should lose points when he is facing an impending loss. Also consider the power hitters your pitchers will face. If your pitcher is going to be pitching against a batter that has hit home runs against him in five of the last six games in which he has faced him, you might want to consider letting your pitcher sit for a game.
Just as you will want to bench your pitchers when they face superior pitchers and hitters, you will want to do the same with your hitters. If one of your hitters is facing a perspective Cy Young award winner who has four shutouts under his belt, you will probably want to bench him. Also, when it comes to hitters, you will have to use your own instincts to decide whether or not to waive them during a batting slump. Everyday that player is in a slump, you are losing points. It's up to you to decide when enough is enough.
To be a contender in your fantasy baseball league, the keyword is consistency. Once you've made a well-informed draft, you must strive to keep your team consistent. There is no room for team or player loyalties. You may say, "I'm only playing for fun." And to that I must reply, "Well, isn't it more fun to win?"
Successfully draft and manage a fantasy baseball team. Winning tips to make you a contender in your league.
Fantasy baseball is a fabulous and fun hobby for any baseball fan. Being a contender in your league makes the game even more fun. The only way to do this is to manage your team with optimum effectiveness. In order to be a successful manager, you must forget about allegiance to your favorite teams and players. By doing so you will be able to manage your fantasy baseball team much like successful managers and general managers in Major League Baseball.
Your first responsibility as a manager will be to make your draft picks. You will want to be as well informed as possible when choosing the players that will make up your team. The best way to analyze prospects is to refer to baseball preview issues available from periodicals such as Sports Illustrated, The Sporting News and Sport. Other good sources can be found at on the internet sites of CNNSI, ESPN, CBS Sportsline and Fox Sports. These magazines and websites offer a wealth of valuable information and statistics.
When using such resources do not rely too heavily on how the player performed the season before. Take into consideration whether or not players were injured. Often times players will be overlooked in the draft because they are ranked very low. These rankings will sometimes reflect the fact that they spent a good part of the previous season injured. However, be careful not to pick those up who are historically prone to chronic injury. You will want to keep a close eye on these "injured' players during Spring Training. If they perform well and remain consistently healthy before the season, you may want to consider drafting them.
At the same time be cautious of other players' performance during Spring Training, as it may not be indicative of how they will perform during the regular season. One must remember that batters are often facing inexperienced pitchers and pitchers are often facing inexperienced batters. Also, many batters and pitchers are using this time to experiment with their perspective batting stances or pitches. There is one important question you must ask yourself when relying on Spring Training performance: "How often has Spring Training play been an accurate gauge to measure regular season performance?"
While Spring Training play does not always suggest regular season performance, remember to be weary of "star" players who are quickly reaching the twilight of their careers. It is true that they will in all likelihood end up being Hall of Fame members, but you need consistent, quality play to be a contender in your fantasy baseball league. You should especially avoid these kind of players if you are in a league where you purchase players and have a salary cap to maintain. "Old" stars demand high salaries that only result in negligible results. This tends to be especially true when it comes to "old" pitchers. On the same note; do not waste money or draft picks on "headliner" players that are newsworthy only because they hit homeruns. While these players are sought after by Major League Baseball general managers who want to sell tickets, they are of little use to you in your quest to attain the maximum amount of fantasy points. These "headliners" generally strike out a lot and are not very reliable fielders; their kind of performance will only result negative fantasy points.
While homerun hitters will end up causing you to lose points, pitchers can often do the same unless you are very careful how you play them. Your pitchers can be your greatest asset or your biggest downfall. When drafting your pitchers take into consideration their ERA and their health. If their ERA is high, but they still have substantial wins, stay away from them. If this is the case, their wins are probably a product of the skill of their offense, rather than their prowess as a pitcher. Look for pitchers with low ERAs who have the wear with all to go the distance. Generally, in fantasy baseball scoring, the more innings they pitch, the more points you will receive. Avoid pictures who are returning from a surgery or an injury. Often times it will take them some time to readjust themselves when coming off an injury. This kind of readjustment will often lose you points. Also, if you participate in a league that gives you an allotted amount of starts for your pitcher then you will end up wasting your starts. This is because pitchers that are coming off an injury usually pitch less innings during their readjustment.
An important variable to consider when deciding whether or not to play a pitcher is the team they are facing and what pitcher they are up against. For instance, if your pitcher, who is 4 and 2 and gives up five runs a game is up against a pitcher who is 6 and 0 and only gives up one run a game, it is a good idea to bench your pitcher. Your pitcher may be good, but there is no reason you should lose points when he is facing an impending loss. Also consider the power hitters your pitchers will face. If your pitcher is going to be pitching against a batter that has hit home runs against him in five of the last six games in which he has faced him, you might want to consider letting your pitcher sit for a game.
Just as you will want to bench your pitchers when they face superior pitchers and hitters, you will want to do the same with your hitters. If one of your hitters is facing a perspective Cy Young award winner who has four shutouts under his belt, you will probably want to bench him. Also, when it comes to hitters, you will have to use your own instincts to decide whether or not to waive them during a batting slump. Everyday that player is in a slump, you are losing points. It's up to you to decide when enough is enough.
To be a contender in your fantasy baseball league, the keyword is consistency. Once you've made a well-informed draft, you must strive to keep your team consistent. There is no room for team or player loyalties. You may say, "I'm only playing for fun." And to that I must reply, "Well, isn't it more fun to win?"
Tuesday, January 27, 2009
World Series Press Pins
World Series Press Pins
World Series "press pins" are issued to members of the sports media covering the games in each city. Baseball collectibles of this type are quite rare. They are one item the average sports collector will have to do some scouting to find.
Each season, the two teams involved issue small, colorful pins to commemorate their team's appearance in the World Series. The pins aren't available to the general public and therefore, they can be quite hard to locate and very valuable to collectors.
Press pins have been issued since 1911. In the early days, they actually served as the credential for reporters to get into the games. In recent years, credentials were issued in laminated paper but the tradition of issuing press pins to accredited media continued. They are distributed with a media packet prior to the games to all reporters who are granted access to the Series.
The Philadelphia A's were the first to issue pins for the 1911 World Series. The pin was actually more of a medallion (sort of like a war medal), but by 1916, they had changed to just a pin-back lapel version. The pins typically have the date, the word "press" and a design of some sort on the front. They are often colorful, very historic in nature and just interesting to look at.
The first Series medal is worth nearly $20,000! Values remain significant for pins issued through the early 1950s but newer pins can be found for less than $100. Pins issued for teams that WIN the World Series typically have a slightly higher value than those issued for the runner-up. Pins created by popular or historically relevant teams also have a premium value. The 1955 Brooklyn Dodger pin is worth $400-500 while the Yankee version often sells for less than half.
Pins are printed several weeks before the post-season, meaning that some teams create pins but never make the Series. These are called "Phantom" pins. Teams often sold or distributed them to fans as a consolation and although not as popular as the actual press pins for Series contestants, they can carry significant value based on scarcity. While most Series Phantom pins in the 1960s sell for $100-200, the 1964 White Sox and '66 Giants pins are very scarce and carry a value of approximately $1,000 each.
Pins are also issued for All Star games. The first was for the 1938 game in Cincinnati and carries a value of $7-8,000 according to the Standard Catalogue of Sports Memorabilia. The baseball Hall of Fame issues similar pins for the induction ceremony in Cooperstown, NY each year and the NFL issues press pins for Super Bowl games.
While press pins can be expensive, they are an attractive, challenging collectible. One can complete a "set" of 2 pins from a recent series for a reasonable outlay and begin a hobby that is enjoyable and unique.
World Series "press pins" are issued to members of the sports media covering the games in each city. Baseball collectibles of this type are quite rare. They are one item the average sports collector will have to do some scouting to find.
Each season, the two teams involved issue small, colorful pins to commemorate their team's appearance in the World Series. The pins aren't available to the general public and therefore, they can be quite hard to locate and very valuable to collectors.
Press pins have been issued since 1911. In the early days, they actually served as the credential for reporters to get into the games. In recent years, credentials were issued in laminated paper but the tradition of issuing press pins to accredited media continued. They are distributed with a media packet prior to the games to all reporters who are granted access to the Series.
The Philadelphia A's were the first to issue pins for the 1911 World Series. The pin was actually more of a medallion (sort of like a war medal), but by 1916, they had changed to just a pin-back lapel version. The pins typically have the date, the word "press" and a design of some sort on the front. They are often colorful, very historic in nature and just interesting to look at.
The first Series medal is worth nearly $20,000! Values remain significant for pins issued through the early 1950s but newer pins can be found for less than $100. Pins issued for teams that WIN the World Series typically have a slightly higher value than those issued for the runner-up. Pins created by popular or historically relevant teams also have a premium value. The 1955 Brooklyn Dodger pin is worth $400-500 while the Yankee version often sells for less than half.
Pins are printed several weeks before the post-season, meaning that some teams create pins but never make the Series. These are called "Phantom" pins. Teams often sold or distributed them to fans as a consolation and although not as popular as the actual press pins for Series contestants, they can carry significant value based on scarcity. While most Series Phantom pins in the 1960s sell for $100-200, the 1964 White Sox and '66 Giants pins are very scarce and carry a value of approximately $1,000 each.
Pins are also issued for All Star games. The first was for the 1938 game in Cincinnati and carries a value of $7-8,000 according to the Standard Catalogue of Sports Memorabilia. The baseball Hall of Fame issues similar pins for the induction ceremony in Cooperstown, NY each year and the NFL issues press pins for Super Bowl games.
While press pins can be expensive, they are an attractive, challenging collectible. One can complete a "set" of 2 pins from a recent series for a reasonable outlay and begin a hobby that is enjoyable and unique.
Monday, January 26, 2009
How To Run A Fantasy Football League
How To Run A Fantasy Football League
Here is a simple explanation of how to set up and run your own Fantasy Football League.
You've probably heard of Fantasy Football. It seems to be growing larger every season. If you have any interest in pro football, fantasy football can make the season much more exciting. Anyone with a knowledge of football can play, man, woman, or child. That is one of the great things about it. One of the most interesting things I have discovered since beginning to play is that I find myself paying much more attention to every game each week. Before, I only took interest in games with teams I liked, but now, I am interested in every game.
I am going to describe to you how the league I am in is set up, how we get started, and how we progress through the season till the very end. There are many different ways you can run your league, this is only one example. Use what you like, throw out what you don't. To start off, we have a sort of board of directors who vote on issues brought before the league by the other coaches. This mainly is rule changes from season to season, but may include anything you can think of. If a coach has an idea for how to make the league better, he brings it before the board who then votes on the issue. Over the course of three years, we have had a few changes that we feel have made the league better and more competetive. The board has been known to give extra points to individual players for an extraordinary play. Any change that involves the league must be voted on by the board. The board as of this moment consists of three coaches. More may be added as we go, but for now, the original three are the board.
Your Fantasy Football season must start with a draft. We usually draft one to two weeks before the first game. I recommend getting yourself one or two of the Fantasy Football magazines you will find anywhere around this time. While you may know a great deal about football, these publications offer you a lot of information that will help you in making your selections. I like to get my hands on these one month before draft day.
Your next step is to make yourself a draft sheet. This is simply a cheat sheet for you to rank the players at each position, number 1 down to as far as you want to go. I usually try to have enough players ranked on my sheet to cover myself in case all of my players get drafted. For instance, if you have four coaches drafting and you each have to take three QBs, if you have twelve QBs rated on your sheet, that should cover you in that area. Of course, this sheet is only a guide. All coaches at some point in a draft took a gamble and went with someone they didn't have rated on their sheet. Call it a gut feeling! Rate the players as you would like to draft them. #1QB, #2QB, #3QB, etc. You get the idea. This sheet will prove invaluable on draft day, and all the time you put into getting it together will pay off in you knowing who you want at any given time. This is perhaps the most important time of the entire season, because if you don't draft well, it's hard to make it up later on.
So you've done all your homework and the big day has arrived. Draft Day! Arrive early and grab the best seat available. You should make yourself comfortable as this may take awhile. In our four coach league, last year's draft took around two hours to complete. While football and beer seem to naturally go together, take it easy on the suds today. You want a clear head when picking your defensive players in the later rounds. As a sneaky ploy, you might bring beer for everyone else. Not only will you be popular, you will the have an advantage of a clear head as the draft wears on. To set the draft order, we draw numbers from a hat or bowl. The coach drawing the number 1 gets the first pick, and so on down the order. I will give you the numbers of players we draft from each position, although you can draft as many as you want. 3 QBs, 4 RBs, 2 TEs, 5 WRs, 1 FB, 2 Ks. This is what we draft as far as offensive players. We always draft offense first, althought we have thought of maybe allowing the drafting of defense, special teams, and coaches at any time instead of in the later rounds. Drafting of defense is 1 DL, 1 DB, 1 LB, 1 Defense/Special team, and 1 coach. Any offensive player can be drafted in any round, so it you want that dominating WR, draft him first!
Of course, you won't get every player you wanted because every one else is wanting them too. If you can get 3 or 4 big scorers on your team, and supplement them with players who will put somehting on the board week-to-week, you will have a good base to start from. Once the draft is complete, you can make trades with other coaches if you wish. Otherwise, all players drafted must be held for 3 weeks into the season unless they suffer a season ending injury.
Scoring can be set up any way you like. Simply assign a point value to anything a player might do in a game. Touchdowns can count as 7 points, each pass caught can count as 1 point, and so on. We also give bonus points to QBs for passing for more than 300 yars, RBs and WRs for a 100 yard game. There are several programs available that you can set up to your own scoring rules that will crunch all the numbers for you. If you are going to have 5 or more coaches, I would highly recommend one of these. They can be found in most software stores or advertisements in most Fantasy Football magazines. They will do most of the work for you. If you are feeling adventurous, you can do all the scoring yourself. Currently, we have 2 coaches who volunteer to do the numbers for everyone. Make sure whoever is doing this is someone you can trust. They simply split up the other coaches and tally all of the numbers for the week. Of course, they are not allowed to do their own team. The primary publication used in doing the weekly scoring is USA TODAY, the monday and tuesday editions. All scoring should be completed and in the hands of the coaches by no later than friday. This will give everyone a chance to make trades before sunday rolls around.
Each coach should have a sheet with all of his players listed. This sheet should include enough slots to record each weeks scoring for the entire season. This will allow a coach to evaluate each player's performance from week to week at a glance.
Well, that's about it. Remember, the bottom line is to have fun. Just the game itself is great, but if you want to add a little incentive, have all of your coaches throw some money into the pot. Maybe a $5 entry fee, just to make things interesting. I know of one league that charges $40 to play, and $1 for each trade made throughout the course of the season. That all adds up to quite a healthy payoff if you are on top at the end of the year!
On a final note, be prepared for Draft Day. This is the single most important day of the entire season. It is the key ingredient to a winning team.
Here is a simple explanation of how to set up and run your own Fantasy Football League.
You've probably heard of Fantasy Football. It seems to be growing larger every season. If you have any interest in pro football, fantasy football can make the season much more exciting. Anyone with a knowledge of football can play, man, woman, or child. That is one of the great things about it. One of the most interesting things I have discovered since beginning to play is that I find myself paying much more attention to every game each week. Before, I only took interest in games with teams I liked, but now, I am interested in every game.
I am going to describe to you how the league I am in is set up, how we get started, and how we progress through the season till the very end. There are many different ways you can run your league, this is only one example. Use what you like, throw out what you don't. To start off, we have a sort of board of directors who vote on issues brought before the league by the other coaches. This mainly is rule changes from season to season, but may include anything you can think of. If a coach has an idea for how to make the league better, he brings it before the board who then votes on the issue. Over the course of three years, we have had a few changes that we feel have made the league better and more competetive. The board has been known to give extra points to individual players for an extraordinary play. Any change that involves the league must be voted on by the board. The board as of this moment consists of three coaches. More may be added as we go, but for now, the original three are the board.
Your Fantasy Football season must start with a draft. We usually draft one to two weeks before the first game. I recommend getting yourself one or two of the Fantasy Football magazines you will find anywhere around this time. While you may know a great deal about football, these publications offer you a lot of information that will help you in making your selections. I like to get my hands on these one month before draft day.
Your next step is to make yourself a draft sheet. This is simply a cheat sheet for you to rank the players at each position, number 1 down to as far as you want to go. I usually try to have enough players ranked on my sheet to cover myself in case all of my players get drafted. For instance, if you have four coaches drafting and you each have to take three QBs, if you have twelve QBs rated on your sheet, that should cover you in that area. Of course, this sheet is only a guide. All coaches at some point in a draft took a gamble and went with someone they didn't have rated on their sheet. Call it a gut feeling! Rate the players as you would like to draft them. #1QB, #2QB, #3QB, etc. You get the idea. This sheet will prove invaluable on draft day, and all the time you put into getting it together will pay off in you knowing who you want at any given time. This is perhaps the most important time of the entire season, because if you don't draft well, it's hard to make it up later on.
So you've done all your homework and the big day has arrived. Draft Day! Arrive early and grab the best seat available. You should make yourself comfortable as this may take awhile. In our four coach league, last year's draft took around two hours to complete. While football and beer seem to naturally go together, take it easy on the suds today. You want a clear head when picking your defensive players in the later rounds. As a sneaky ploy, you might bring beer for everyone else. Not only will you be popular, you will the have an advantage of a clear head as the draft wears on. To set the draft order, we draw numbers from a hat or bowl. The coach drawing the number 1 gets the first pick, and so on down the order. I will give you the numbers of players we draft from each position, although you can draft as many as you want. 3 QBs, 4 RBs, 2 TEs, 5 WRs, 1 FB, 2 Ks. This is what we draft as far as offensive players. We always draft offense first, althought we have thought of maybe allowing the drafting of defense, special teams, and coaches at any time instead of in the later rounds. Drafting of defense is 1 DL, 1 DB, 1 LB, 1 Defense/Special team, and 1 coach. Any offensive player can be drafted in any round, so it you want that dominating WR, draft him first!
Of course, you won't get every player you wanted because every one else is wanting them too. If you can get 3 or 4 big scorers on your team, and supplement them with players who will put somehting on the board week-to-week, you will have a good base to start from. Once the draft is complete, you can make trades with other coaches if you wish. Otherwise, all players drafted must be held for 3 weeks into the season unless they suffer a season ending injury.
Scoring can be set up any way you like. Simply assign a point value to anything a player might do in a game. Touchdowns can count as 7 points, each pass caught can count as 1 point, and so on. We also give bonus points to QBs for passing for more than 300 yars, RBs and WRs for a 100 yard game. There are several programs available that you can set up to your own scoring rules that will crunch all the numbers for you. If you are going to have 5 or more coaches, I would highly recommend one of these. They can be found in most software stores or advertisements in most Fantasy Football magazines. They will do most of the work for you. If you are feeling adventurous, you can do all the scoring yourself. Currently, we have 2 coaches who volunteer to do the numbers for everyone. Make sure whoever is doing this is someone you can trust. They simply split up the other coaches and tally all of the numbers for the week. Of course, they are not allowed to do their own team. The primary publication used in doing the weekly scoring is USA TODAY, the monday and tuesday editions. All scoring should be completed and in the hands of the coaches by no later than friday. This will give everyone a chance to make trades before sunday rolls around.
Each coach should have a sheet with all of his players listed. This sheet should include enough slots to record each weeks scoring for the entire season. This will allow a coach to evaluate each player's performance from week to week at a glance.
Well, that's about it. Remember, the bottom line is to have fun. Just the game itself is great, but if you want to add a little incentive, have all of your coaches throw some money into the pot. Maybe a $5 entry fee, just to make things interesting. I know of one league that charges $40 to play, and $1 for each trade made throughout the course of the season. That all adds up to quite a healthy payoff if you are on top at the end of the year!
On a final note, be prepared for Draft Day. This is the single most important day of the entire season. It is the key ingredient to a winning team.
Sunday, January 25, 2009
Collecting 1960s Aurora Plastic Sports Model Kits
Collecting 1960s Aurora Plastic Sports Model Kits
Aurora Plastics Corporation created six model kits in 1965. Today, these "Sport Magazine Great Moments in Sports" items are a rare and valuable item. Aurora Plastics Corporation got together with SPORT Magazine in 1965 to create a series of six plastic model kits entitled "Great Moments in Sports".
The series features a scene from the 1920s Dempsey-Firpo boxing match, classic poses from baseball's Willie Mays and Babe Ruth, basketball great Jerry West and football's Johnny Unitas and Jim Brown.
Relatively simple to piece together, the models came in boxes with a picture depicting the athlete in one of his most famous moments. The original packages also contained booklets with text written by SPORT editors, but the real attraction for youngsters was, of course, the chance to construct the model. A change of pace, maybe, from model cars and airplanes that were the usual subjects for this hobby. Often found in department stores and hobby shops, the Aurora kits were a unique, if short-lived niche in the toys and games sections of 1960s stores.
Today, the kits which survived in the original unopened form are worth $60-300, with the Ruth and Mays commanding the most interest because of their popularity.
Not many kits did survive in their original form and because of a lack of popularity (I once found a stash of 15 in a second hand store in the early 1980s), there aren't many unopened kits to be found. Those that are do not always emerge in pristine condition. The box is made of thin cardboard and subject to water damage and mildew despite a thin layer of outer cellophane.
Aurora produced the kits only for a short period of time during the 1960s and did not extend the series beyond the orginal group.
While Hartland statues, which were also produced in plastic during the 60s but came already assembled, have retained a cult following, the market for Aurora models is not nearly as great. There don't seem to be any sports memorabilia dealers who specialize in them, but they can be seen from time to time in auction ads run by Sports Collectors Digest magazine.
Finding one at a major card show is a possibility and one might also search on-line sites such as e-bay. No price guide that I know of lists pricing for the kits that have been constructed. However, if you're a history buff that might be part of the fun if you can find a kit at a reasonable price.
Aurora Plastics Corporation created six model kits in 1965. Today, these "Sport Magazine Great Moments in Sports" items are a rare and valuable item. Aurora Plastics Corporation got together with SPORT Magazine in 1965 to create a series of six plastic model kits entitled "Great Moments in Sports".
The series features a scene from the 1920s Dempsey-Firpo boxing match, classic poses from baseball's Willie Mays and Babe Ruth, basketball great Jerry West and football's Johnny Unitas and Jim Brown.
Relatively simple to piece together, the models came in boxes with a picture depicting the athlete in one of his most famous moments. The original packages also contained booklets with text written by SPORT editors, but the real attraction for youngsters was, of course, the chance to construct the model. A change of pace, maybe, from model cars and airplanes that were the usual subjects for this hobby. Often found in department stores and hobby shops, the Aurora kits were a unique, if short-lived niche in the toys and games sections of 1960s stores.
Today, the kits which survived in the original unopened form are worth $60-300, with the Ruth and Mays commanding the most interest because of their popularity.
Not many kits did survive in their original form and because of a lack of popularity (I once found a stash of 15 in a second hand store in the early 1980s), there aren't many unopened kits to be found. Those that are do not always emerge in pristine condition. The box is made of thin cardboard and subject to water damage and mildew despite a thin layer of outer cellophane.
Aurora produced the kits only for a short period of time during the 1960s and did not extend the series beyond the orginal group.
While Hartland statues, which were also produced in plastic during the 60s but came already assembled, have retained a cult following, the market for Aurora models is not nearly as great. There don't seem to be any sports memorabilia dealers who specialize in them, but they can be seen from time to time in auction ads run by Sports Collectors Digest magazine.
Finding one at a major card show is a possibility and one might also search on-line sites such as e-bay. No price guide that I know of lists pricing for the kits that have been constructed. However, if you're a history buff that might be part of the fun if you can find a kit at a reasonable price.
Saturday, January 24, 2009
Coin Collecting
Coin Collecting
Coin collecting can be profitable and fun. Learn how!
If you want to begin a coin collection, but aren't quite sure how to start, the best tip is to get coins that are in good condition. The shinier and newer looking, the better. Some coins that are in particularly high demand right now are American coins from the period of 1793 to 1814. These coins are larger and thicker than most coins in circulation today, but expect to pay a pretty penny for these coins. Some of these older and valuable American coins cost hundreds and thousands of dollars. Of course, those prices are for coins in mint condition. For coins in lesser condition, you'll be able to pay lower prices. Your best bet when collecting is to get coins of lesser value but better condition. These are coins that have a better chance of appreciating in your favor.
Another type of coins you should look at collecting are ancient coins. These are coins you can buy for just a couple dollars at most coin shows and from coin dealers. You can get coins from the era of Jesus for as little as $20. The reason you can get these coins for such inexpensive prices is because coins are typically made of firm, strong metal products that last throughout time. They likely look the same today as they did 1,000 years ago.
Another option for you is to find foreign coins. If you choose to go this route, look for coins for the early parts of the 20th century or even before then. Quality foreign coins can be bought for as little as $50, but if you want the best around, expect to pay thousands.
If you aren't sure whether an older coin especially on from the ancient era–is real, ask to see any kind of paperwork or certificates of authenticity on the coin. A tip when shopping for ancient coins: these coins weren't manufactured in factories, they were made by hand. Old coins were hammered into shape and will not be perfectly round. In addition, they usually don't have complete pictures or dates on them.
Coin collecting can be profitable and fun. Learn how!
If you want to begin a coin collection, but aren't quite sure how to start, the best tip is to get coins that are in good condition. The shinier and newer looking, the better. Some coins that are in particularly high demand right now are American coins from the period of 1793 to 1814. These coins are larger and thicker than most coins in circulation today, but expect to pay a pretty penny for these coins. Some of these older and valuable American coins cost hundreds and thousands of dollars. Of course, those prices are for coins in mint condition. For coins in lesser condition, you'll be able to pay lower prices. Your best bet when collecting is to get coins of lesser value but better condition. These are coins that have a better chance of appreciating in your favor.
Another type of coins you should look at collecting are ancient coins. These are coins you can buy for just a couple dollars at most coin shows and from coin dealers. You can get coins from the era of Jesus for as little as $20. The reason you can get these coins for such inexpensive prices is because coins are typically made of firm, strong metal products that last throughout time. They likely look the same today as they did 1,000 years ago.
Another option for you is to find foreign coins. If you choose to go this route, look for coins for the early parts of the 20th century or even before then. Quality foreign coins can be bought for as little as $50, but if you want the best around, expect to pay thousands.
If you aren't sure whether an older coin especially on from the ancient era–is real, ask to see any kind of paperwork or certificates of authenticity on the coin. A tip when shopping for ancient coins: these coins weren't manufactured in factories, they were made by hand. Old coins were hammered into shape and will not be perfectly round. In addition, they usually don't have complete pictures or dates on them.
Collecting Collectibles And Antiques
Collecting Collectibles And Antiques
Collecting collectibles antiques: What are some affordable collectibles that are worth the money? Here's a list of some ways you can get started collecting without breaking your bank.
If you want to get involved with collecting valuable products, jewelry, and antiques, but don't have a lot of money, you're likely often discouraged that you can't get started. But don't fret: there are plenty of collectibles even you can afford. Here's a list of some ways you can get started collecting without breaking your bank.
Collecting collectibles antiques: What are some affordable collectibles that are worth the money? Here's a list of some ways you can get started collecting without breaking your bank.
If you want to get involved with collecting valuable products, jewelry, and antiques, but don't have a lot of money, you're likely often discouraged that you can't get started. But don't fret: there are plenty of collectibles even you can afford. Here's a list of some ways you can get started collecting without breaking your bank.
- Political memorabilia. These are always popular. In an election year, collect any buttons, flags, and bumper stickers. Ten years from now these will be worth some money.
- Toys. If you have toys from early in the century, chances are they're worth some money. You want to clean them up and make sure they're in a good condition, and you can proudly display them on your shelves.
- Antique dolls. These often cost less than $500, and they traditionally have appreciated in value as the years go by. Dolls from the 30s, 40s, and 50s are quite valuable right now on the American market.
- Older furniture. If you have inherited pieces from your parents and grandparents, and they're in good condition, they're likely worth some money. Furniture made during the middle part of the 20th century is particularly in demand right now.
- Victorian jewelry. These are jewelry pieces that have been popular for a long time, as well as later Art Deco pieces. They are affordable and yet are consistently appreciating in value.
- Pottery and crafts from the early 20th Century. Check your closets on these. These are items you may not traditionally consider as good collectibles. But some pottery and arts-and-crafts are now worth hundreds–and perhaps thousands–of dollars.
- Radio station collectibles. Prizes that were given away by companies, particularly radio stations, are valuable. If you have radio products advertising Orphan Annie and Dick Tracy like secret decoders or belt buckles, you can make some money by selling them.
- Antique marbles. Yes, the toys you played with in the 1930s and 1940s are now viewed as quality, valuable glass products. These were made of a high quality glass, and are difficult to find, but it's worth it if you can. Some of these marbles that make the best collectibles right now came with figurines inside.
Friday, January 23, 2009
Sports Cards: Collecting And Care
Sports Cards: Collecting And Care
Baseball and sports card collectors would do well to learn a few things about storing their items to protect them from damage.
You've discovered your old baseball card collection in mom's attic. Now what? Show them off to the rest of the family or your kids, sure.
But before you go wild about your new-found fortune, take some quick steps to keep them from losing their value in less time than it took you to bring them back into the world!
Baseball and other sports cards are great to look at. They tell stories, bring back memories and are just fun to hold. But cardboard corners don't make for sturdiness. Drop one on the floor and that corner gets bent in a hurry.
There are two items that should be purchased immediately by anyone who cares about their cards. One is called a "top holder". It's a plastic holder that lets you slip your cards inside and protects them from damage. Any card shop or large show has them. Magazines like Sports Collectors Digest have ads from companies who sell them. You can buy them in packs of 25 for less than $5. If your cards have some sentimental value and you don't want to sell them or their value isn't going to put the kids through college, you might consider buying some plastic sheets as well. These are nine-pocket pages similar to those being sold for photo albums. In quantity, sheets can be purchased in the 10-12 cent each range. They should offer decent protection and allow you and your buddies to see them. With the sheets, it's a good idea to buy a 3-ring binder to hold them. Don't buy those in the department store; they don't work too well for cards. Try going to a card shop or show and buying them there. They'll be made with a "D" ring for easier page turning.
Follow those quick steps and keep those cards in nice shape!
Baseball and sports card collectors would do well to learn a few things about storing their items to protect them from damage.
You've discovered your old baseball card collection in mom's attic. Now what? Show them off to the rest of the family or your kids, sure.
But before you go wild about your new-found fortune, take some quick steps to keep them from losing their value in less time than it took you to bring them back into the world!
Baseball and other sports cards are great to look at. They tell stories, bring back memories and are just fun to hold. But cardboard corners don't make for sturdiness. Drop one on the floor and that corner gets bent in a hurry.
There are two items that should be purchased immediately by anyone who cares about their cards. One is called a "top holder". It's a plastic holder that lets you slip your cards inside and protects them from damage. Any card shop or large show has them. Magazines like Sports Collectors Digest have ads from companies who sell them. You can buy them in packs of 25 for less than $5. If your cards have some sentimental value and you don't want to sell them or their value isn't going to put the kids through college, you might consider buying some plastic sheets as well. These are nine-pocket pages similar to those being sold for photo albums. In quantity, sheets can be purchased in the 10-12 cent each range. They should offer decent protection and allow you and your buddies to see them. With the sheets, it's a good idea to buy a 3-ring binder to hold them. Don't buy those in the department store; they don't work too well for cards. Try going to a card shop or show and buying them there. They'll be made with a "D" ring for easier page turning.
Follow those quick steps and keep those cards in nice shape!
Thursday, January 22, 2009
Postcard Collecting
Postcard Collecting
The novice post card collector can easily build a top notch postcard collection. Learn how to spot postcard publishers with superior production values. Build a quality collection from the beginning.
People collect picture postcards of full moons, flags, ships, beautiful women, school, post office, or church buildings, animals, comics, glamorous women, centennial celebrations and expositions; really whatever pleases the collector. These are known as topicals in the world of postcard collectibles.
An interest over time can narrow quite specifically. One collector may search out postcard images of cows standing in water and another pictures of people reading. Some collectors look for small town views and others for city views or scenic views. Still others search for small town views with trolley cars or American flags.
Whatever the theme preference, it is easy to build a large collection quickly by attending flea markets, antique and collectibles shows, and tag sales, and by bidding in online auctions like eBay. It's not so easy at first to identify purchases by quality. Most often, the novice collector accumulates a large number of fairly worthless postcards with a few very lucky finds thrown in.
But there is a better way that will, in the end, lead to a far more valuable collection.
An easy method for the novice collector to be sure of building a quality inventory is to check the publisher's name on the back of the card, usually printed along the left margin or down the divider. As in any field, there have always been postcard publishers whose production values were superior enough to stand out in the rest of the herd.
The first two names new collectors learn in the category of high quality postcard publishers are Tuck and Valentine & Sons, and you can rarely go wrong in buying cards by these leaders in the field.
But there are other great publishers whose names go unrecognized, partly because so much attention has been given to the leading few. If you are interested in buying song lyric cards, don't pass up a Bamforth or a Charles Rose. Campbell Art Company published the charming children drawn by artist Rosie O'Neill and International Art Publishing published Ellen Clapsaddle. Local views by Albertype of Brooklyn on the East Coast, Edward H. Mitchell of San Francisco on the West Coast, E.C. Kropp in the Midwest, and S. Langsdorf in the South are almost sure to be beauties.
Other good publishers for local views are A.C. Bosselman, M. Rieder, Fred Lounsbury, and Manhattan P.C. Company. For comics look for Ullman Mfg. Company, Paul C. Koeber, and American Post Card Company. Exposition cards: Joseph Koehler and Rotograph. Artist-signed: Illustrated Post Card Company, F.A. Owen, John Winsch, and Ullman Mfg. Company. Greetings: Reinthal & Newman, Charles Rose, Stecher Litho, and Gottschalk, Dreyfus & Davis.
By looking for publishers who were particularly good in the theme of your choice, you can learn what constituted the finest in postcard production. Very quickly, you will know how to spot good quality work on your own, no matter the publisher, and will soon be spotting a publisher's work without having to turn over the card at all. Collecting by publisher makes sense for anyone, but particular for the collector who is just learning the way.
There are some publishers whose work was so superb you may find yourself buying cards without regard to the theme at all. A word of good advice: Forgetting theme for a moment, buy anything you can get your hands on by Rotograph, Edward H. Mitchell, Ullman Mfg., and Detroit Publishing Company.
Go out and find your great postcard collection. It's easy.
The novice post card collector can easily build a top notch postcard collection. Learn how to spot postcard publishers with superior production values. Build a quality collection from the beginning.
People collect picture postcards of full moons, flags, ships, beautiful women, school, post office, or church buildings, animals, comics, glamorous women, centennial celebrations and expositions; really whatever pleases the collector. These are known as topicals in the world of postcard collectibles.
An interest over time can narrow quite specifically. One collector may search out postcard images of cows standing in water and another pictures of people reading. Some collectors look for small town views and others for city views or scenic views. Still others search for small town views with trolley cars or American flags.
Whatever the theme preference, it is easy to build a large collection quickly by attending flea markets, antique and collectibles shows, and tag sales, and by bidding in online auctions like eBay. It's not so easy at first to identify purchases by quality. Most often, the novice collector accumulates a large number of fairly worthless postcards with a few very lucky finds thrown in.
But there is a better way that will, in the end, lead to a far more valuable collection.
An easy method for the novice collector to be sure of building a quality inventory is to check the publisher's name on the back of the card, usually printed along the left margin or down the divider. As in any field, there have always been postcard publishers whose production values were superior enough to stand out in the rest of the herd.
The first two names new collectors learn in the category of high quality postcard publishers are Tuck and Valentine & Sons, and you can rarely go wrong in buying cards by these leaders in the field.
But there are other great publishers whose names go unrecognized, partly because so much attention has been given to the leading few. If you are interested in buying song lyric cards, don't pass up a Bamforth or a Charles Rose. Campbell Art Company published the charming children drawn by artist Rosie O'Neill and International Art Publishing published Ellen Clapsaddle. Local views by Albertype of Brooklyn on the East Coast, Edward H. Mitchell of San Francisco on the West Coast, E.C. Kropp in the Midwest, and S. Langsdorf in the South are almost sure to be beauties.
Other good publishers for local views are A.C. Bosselman, M. Rieder, Fred Lounsbury, and Manhattan P.C. Company. For comics look for Ullman Mfg. Company, Paul C. Koeber, and American Post Card Company. Exposition cards: Joseph Koehler and Rotograph. Artist-signed: Illustrated Post Card Company, F.A. Owen, John Winsch, and Ullman Mfg. Company. Greetings: Reinthal & Newman, Charles Rose, Stecher Litho, and Gottschalk, Dreyfus & Davis.
By looking for publishers who were particularly good in the theme of your choice, you can learn what constituted the finest in postcard production. Very quickly, you will know how to spot good quality work on your own, no matter the publisher, and will soon be spotting a publisher's work without having to turn over the card at all. Collecting by publisher makes sense for anyone, but particular for the collector who is just learning the way.
There are some publishers whose work was so superb you may find yourself buying cards without regard to the theme at all. A word of good advice: Forgetting theme for a moment, buy anything you can get your hands on by Rotograph, Edward H. Mitchell, Ullman Mfg., and Detroit Publishing Company.
Go out and find your great postcard collection. It's easy.
Friday, January 2, 2009
Stamp Collecting Information
Stamp Collecting Information
Stamp collecting information: If you're looking to get started in collecting stamps, you'll be happy to hear that stamp collecting can be one of the most affordable hobbies.
If you're looking to get started in collecting stamps, you'll be happy to hear that stamp collecting can be one of the most affordable hobbies. After all, you can essentially get stamps for however amount you want to spend. There are one-cent stamps, there are one-dollar stamps, and there are stamps that are worth thousands of dollars.
The best stamps are the ones you enjoy. If you have other hobbies, it's often fun to combine them with your stamp collection. If you collect ceramic cows, there are cow stamps. If you're a big Disney fan, there are stamps honoring all the Disney characters. There are plenty of stamps to fit your fancy. The trick is finding the ones you like, buying them, and proudly displaying them in a book, display case, or frame.
Which stamps are typically worth the most? It mind sound odd to those who aren't incredibly familiar with the stamp collecting hobby, but the most valuable stamps are often the ones that were made with mistakes. For example, in 1918 stamps portraying the biplane were printed. Some of the biplanes were printed on the stamps upside down. Those are worth quite a bit of money. In 1995, stamps honoring Richard Nixon were printed. There were some 80 million stamps printed, and 160 of them contained huge mistakes. On some of them his portrait was off-center, on some his name is printed upside down. And on some both errors occurred. Recently, one Nixon stamp with mistakes sold at Christie's auction house for $14,500.
There are many ways stamps have mistakes. Some have spelling errors, some display out of focus photos. These are usually the most valuable of all stamps. But if you're starting out your collection and don't have a lot of money to use, you should probably start out by visiting your post office and finding out which stamps that are available interest you enough to bring to your collection. The stamps that do the best for your collection are the ones that you enjoy owning most.
Stamp collecting information: If you're looking to get started in collecting stamps, you'll be happy to hear that stamp collecting can be one of the most affordable hobbies.
If you're looking to get started in collecting stamps, you'll be happy to hear that stamp collecting can be one of the most affordable hobbies. After all, you can essentially get stamps for however amount you want to spend. There are one-cent stamps, there are one-dollar stamps, and there are stamps that are worth thousands of dollars.
The best stamps are the ones you enjoy. If you have other hobbies, it's often fun to combine them with your stamp collection. If you collect ceramic cows, there are cow stamps. If you're a big Disney fan, there are stamps honoring all the Disney characters. There are plenty of stamps to fit your fancy. The trick is finding the ones you like, buying them, and proudly displaying them in a book, display case, or frame.
Which stamps are typically worth the most? It mind sound odd to those who aren't incredibly familiar with the stamp collecting hobby, but the most valuable stamps are often the ones that were made with mistakes. For example, in 1918 stamps portraying the biplane were printed. Some of the biplanes were printed on the stamps upside down. Those are worth quite a bit of money. In 1995, stamps honoring Richard Nixon were printed. There were some 80 million stamps printed, and 160 of them contained huge mistakes. On some of them his portrait was off-center, on some his name is printed upside down. And on some both errors occurred. Recently, one Nixon stamp with mistakes sold at Christie's auction house for $14,500.
There are many ways stamps have mistakes. Some have spelling errors, some display out of focus photos. These are usually the most valuable of all stamps. But if you're starting out your collection and don't have a lot of money to use, you should probably start out by visiting your post office and finding out which stamps that are available interest you enough to bring to your collection. The stamps that do the best for your collection are the ones that you enjoy owning most.
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