Collecting Vintage Baseball Cards
An offshoot of the vintage baseball card collecting hobby is collecting unopened packs of cards. Here's a guide for those who prefer their bubble gum cards with wrappers still attached!
Baseball card packages were meant to be opened. But for those who love a sense of mystery with their history, unopened packs can be great fun for collectors.
Obviously, it's easy to find unopened packs of cards from the last couple of years. Hobby stores and discount shops carry them all the time. Finding older packs isn't so easy.
Bubble gum and baseball cards have been together since the 1930s. Some kids bought the gum to get the cards while others did the opposite. Not many saved the packs as is. But throughout the 1970s and 80s as old warehouses began to change hands and old drug stores began shutting down, some of those unsold boxes crawled out of a time machine. Here and there packs from the 1950s and 60s emerged, usually only a box or two at a time. Today, packs of cards from the 1950s are worth hundreds of dollars. Even those from the early 1970s can top the $100 mark based on what might be inside.
Sure the gum is rancid, but the possibility of a Mickey Mantle or Hank Aaron card make for an interesting dilemma. To open or not? Most hard-core pack collectors won't touch their pack. Why? Scarcity. Just as some cards are scarce, finding the original packs those cards came in are even tougher to locate. Only a few really old packs survived the test of time.
Be careful when buying unopened products, however. Some tampered packs are out there where unscrupulous people have opened the packs carefully, checked to see what's inside and then sealed the pack back up. It's not easy to do it and veteran hobbyists will be able to tell those packs that are "clean" by the tightness of the wrapping. A good idea is to invest in a copy of a magazine like "Sports Collector's Digest" and ask questions from those dealers who specialize in older, unopened material or to go to a large card show where knowledgeable collectors can help.
Thursday, February 26, 2009
Wednesday, February 25, 2009
Hostess Baseball Cards 1975-1979
Hostess Baseball Cards 1975-1979
Hostess Cakes issued a popular series of baseball cards in the 1970s. A hit with sports memorabilia buffs then and now, this issue is now hard to find.
1970s kids didn't have a lot of baseball cards to choose from. Topps came out with their yearly series. Kellogg's did the same with one to a box of Frosted Flakes and an offer to send box tops and $2 for a complete set. But once you had those, what was there to look forward to in the late summer months? Nothing until the Twinkie man brought the goods to the grocer.
The box of Twinkies made it's way home from the store as it often did. Only this day in 1975 was different. This time, the box advertised baseball cards. And they were on THIS BOX! Anxious kids turned it over to see who they'd gotten in this suddenly new and exciting product.
Hank Aaron? Johnny Bench? Pete Rose? Maybe that incredible strikeout artist Nolan Ryan?
That young collector quickly discovered there were 150 cards to the set. And not only were they on the boxes of Hostess products, they were also issued as the cardboard backer on the single Twinkie packs. A lot of kids (and grownups) gained a lot of weight trying to complete their Hostess card sets over the next five summers.
Sixty of the cards were issued on the Twinkie single packs. But there were 150 total cards in the set. The other cards could only be obtained by buying the boxes of Hostess products which, as today, contained 8-10 cakes. A complete set of those runs $150. Smart collectors who assembled their set from the boxes and left the 3 cards together, cutting them as a "panel" have seen their cards rise to a value of $400 per set of 50 panels.
The sets continued to drive collectors into the bakery aisle for the rest of the decade. Hostess issued cards in 1976, 1977, 1978 and 1979. The individual Twinkie packs carried cards only in the first 3 years but the boxes remained a constant.
Those lucky enough to live near a "thrift" or "outlet" store operated by Hostess could often pick up boxes of Twinkies, HoHos or Cupcakes at 1/2 price or less on certain days. Anxious collectors often waited to see what each truck brought back for sale, trying to complete their set.
The panel sets from 1976-1979 are worth up to $350 in top grade. Hostess did return briefly with a set of cards in 1993, but they could be obtained only through the purchase of a product called "Baseballs".
Hostess Cakes issued a popular series of baseball cards in the 1970s. A hit with sports memorabilia buffs then and now, this issue is now hard to find.
1970s kids didn't have a lot of baseball cards to choose from. Topps came out with their yearly series. Kellogg's did the same with one to a box of Frosted Flakes and an offer to send box tops and $2 for a complete set. But once you had those, what was there to look forward to in the late summer months? Nothing until the Twinkie man brought the goods to the grocer.
The box of Twinkies made it's way home from the store as it often did. Only this day in 1975 was different. This time, the box advertised baseball cards. And they were on THIS BOX! Anxious kids turned it over to see who they'd gotten in this suddenly new and exciting product.
Hank Aaron? Johnny Bench? Pete Rose? Maybe that incredible strikeout artist Nolan Ryan?
That young collector quickly discovered there were 150 cards to the set. And not only were they on the boxes of Hostess products, they were also issued as the cardboard backer on the single Twinkie packs. A lot of kids (and grownups) gained a lot of weight trying to complete their Hostess card sets over the next five summers.
Sixty of the cards were issued on the Twinkie single packs. But there were 150 total cards in the set. The other cards could only be obtained by buying the boxes of Hostess products which, as today, contained 8-10 cakes. A complete set of those runs $150. Smart collectors who assembled their set from the boxes and left the 3 cards together, cutting them as a "panel" have seen their cards rise to a value of $400 per set of 50 panels.
The sets continued to drive collectors into the bakery aisle for the rest of the decade. Hostess issued cards in 1976, 1977, 1978 and 1979. The individual Twinkie packs carried cards only in the first 3 years but the boxes remained a constant.
Those lucky enough to live near a "thrift" or "outlet" store operated by Hostess could often pick up boxes of Twinkies, HoHos or Cupcakes at 1/2 price or less on certain days. Anxious collectors often waited to see what each truck brought back for sale, trying to complete their set.
The panel sets from 1976-1979 are worth up to $350 in top grade. Hostess did return briefly with a set of cards in 1993, but they could be obtained only through the purchase of a product called "Baseballs".
Tuesday, February 24, 2009
How To Sell Your Baseball Cards
How To Sell Your Baseball Cards
Thinking of selling your old baseball card collection? Learn how to increase your profits by doing a few simple things to organize and present your cards.
Selling baseball cards is like selling anything else: how successful you are has a lot to do with how you present the merchandise that you have. When selling baseball cards, this means that you have to be organized.
Organizing your collection is the most important thing you can do before selling it. But who you are trying to sell to can dramatically impact how you should organize.
Selling to Professionals
When selling to professionals, you should organize your cards so that they know exactly what they are getting. If you have an '86 Tops complete set, you will get paid the value of an '86 Tops Set. But not if you don't demonstrate that you have the set. Card dealers need to be able to verify that you have what you say you have. The best way to enable them to do this, and to show them that you know what you are doing and they shouldn't try to cheat you, is to organize your cards by set and by number. Each card has a number on the back of it, going numerically from #1 to however many cards are in the set. The set also includes checklists that list the cards numerically. If you have an entire set of cards in order from 1 to the last number, a professional card dealer knows he is getting what he is paying for, and he knows exactly which cards are in the set you are selling him.
When you are selling to professionals, unless you have a very rare and special card, you will almost always come out ahead selling cards in sets than trying to split up sets and sell individually.
The exception to this rule is if you have unopened packs of cards, which can sometimes sell for more individually. But remember; you are almost always better off leaving packages unopened if you still have some that are that way.
Selling To Other Collectors
If you are selling to other collectors, your best bet is probably to get a table at a card show (although occasionally you can do well at a garage sale if it is advertised well). In these situations, you can still benefit by keeping and selling sets together. But these situations are best for collectors that are selling something less than an entire set.
Other collectors are interested in more than the business side of baseball cards. They don't want to see cards organized by number in boxes. They want to see cards in binders with clear pages, organized by team or by sections dedicated to popular players. But it is still a good idea for you to keep track of all the cards that you are selling, and how much they are worth. Keep a list with this information for your own reference, and share it with potential buyers at your own discretion if doing so will make or break a deal.
Finally, make sure that you have some idea of how much the cards you are selling are worth. Most card shops will give an estimate for free, and some charge a small fee. But the time and effort you will spend re-familiarizing yourself with your collection will ensure that you don't unwittingly sell a rare card for way below market value.
Thinking of selling your old baseball card collection? Learn how to increase your profits by doing a few simple things to organize and present your cards.
Selling baseball cards is like selling anything else: how successful you are has a lot to do with how you present the merchandise that you have. When selling baseball cards, this means that you have to be organized.
Organizing your collection is the most important thing you can do before selling it. But who you are trying to sell to can dramatically impact how you should organize.
Selling to Professionals
When selling to professionals, you should organize your cards so that they know exactly what they are getting. If you have an '86 Tops complete set, you will get paid the value of an '86 Tops Set. But not if you don't demonstrate that you have the set. Card dealers need to be able to verify that you have what you say you have. The best way to enable them to do this, and to show them that you know what you are doing and they shouldn't try to cheat you, is to organize your cards by set and by number. Each card has a number on the back of it, going numerically from #1 to however many cards are in the set. The set also includes checklists that list the cards numerically. If you have an entire set of cards in order from 1 to the last number, a professional card dealer knows he is getting what he is paying for, and he knows exactly which cards are in the set you are selling him.
When you are selling to professionals, unless you have a very rare and special card, you will almost always come out ahead selling cards in sets than trying to split up sets and sell individually.
The exception to this rule is if you have unopened packs of cards, which can sometimes sell for more individually. But remember; you are almost always better off leaving packages unopened if you still have some that are that way.
Selling To Other Collectors
If you are selling to other collectors, your best bet is probably to get a table at a card show (although occasionally you can do well at a garage sale if it is advertised well). In these situations, you can still benefit by keeping and selling sets together. But these situations are best for collectors that are selling something less than an entire set.
Other collectors are interested in more than the business side of baseball cards. They don't want to see cards organized by number in boxes. They want to see cards in binders with clear pages, organized by team or by sections dedicated to popular players. But it is still a good idea for you to keep track of all the cards that you are selling, and how much they are worth. Keep a list with this information for your own reference, and share it with potential buyers at your own discretion if doing so will make or break a deal.
Finally, make sure that you have some idea of how much the cards you are selling are worth. Most card shops will give an estimate for free, and some charge a small fee. But the time and effort you will spend re-familiarizing yourself with your collection will ensure that you don't unwittingly sell a rare card for way below market value.
Monday, February 23, 2009
Baseball Card Fraud
Baseball Card Fraud
Baseball cards are not stocks. They are a bad investment that takes advantage of our children. The fraud needs to be exposed.
Baseball cards rip people off. Baseball card stores overcharge their customers on every investment. It's a rip-off and needs to be exposed.
A stock is an investment. A stock can be bought and sold and usually within minutes the price will not change too much. Baseball cards do not have this basic concept. Once the "investor" has paid ten dollars for the card, the storeowner will not offer him ten dollars for the card or even 7 dollars for the card. He probably will not offer anything for the card. How is that fair?
Another problem is that these pieces of paper have been produced millions of times. How can there be a market for cards when the supply is greater than the demand? It's a silly proposition and shows that prices are arbitrary. Older cards have less supply, but their value is questionable because younger card collectors have only limited interest in older players.
When people want the prices of stocks they look in the newspaper or go on-line. Baseball cards have several price guide magazines making a card worth 20 dollars in one magazine and 100 dollars in another. The dealer can fix his selling price on the higher number and his buying price on the lower number.
Children get convinced into thinking that their precious little cards have some value. However, in all actuality baseball cards are not even worth the paper they are printed on.
Baseball cards are not stocks. They are a bad investment that takes advantage of our children. The fraud needs to be exposed.
Baseball cards rip people off. Baseball card stores overcharge their customers on every investment. It's a rip-off and needs to be exposed.
A stock is an investment. A stock can be bought and sold and usually within minutes the price will not change too much. Baseball cards do not have this basic concept. Once the "investor" has paid ten dollars for the card, the storeowner will not offer him ten dollars for the card or even 7 dollars for the card. He probably will not offer anything for the card. How is that fair?
Another problem is that these pieces of paper have been produced millions of times. How can there be a market for cards when the supply is greater than the demand? It's a silly proposition and shows that prices are arbitrary. Older cards have less supply, but their value is questionable because younger card collectors have only limited interest in older players.
When people want the prices of stocks they look in the newspaper or go on-line. Baseball cards have several price guide magazines making a card worth 20 dollars in one magazine and 100 dollars in another. The dealer can fix his selling price on the higher number and his buying price on the lower number.
Children get convinced into thinking that their precious little cards have some value. However, in all actuality baseball cards are not even worth the paper they are printed on.
Sunday, February 22, 2009
Baseball Card Values
Baseball Card Values
The best way to determine the approximate monetary value of baseball cards.
Although the sports memorabilia industry has taken a serious hit in popularity in recent years, baseball cards can still be both an enjoyable and profitable hobby. Although a specific baseball card is really only worth as much as someone is willing to pay for it, there are several things that can make a card very valuable.
Obviously, the rarest cards will be the most valuable simply because there is a very limited market for them. Usually the older a card is the fewer copies of it are in circulation. So chances are if you find a very old baseball card it will be worth a significant amount. Of course, perhaps even more important than the age of the card is whose picture is on it. There will be very little demand for a card of a player who only played for a year or two and had no impact on the game. But a Hall of Famer's card will be worth a significant amount.
Cards that were put out in a player's first year in the league, known as rookie cards, will also be worth more than cards put out in a later year. The one thing that can increase the value of a good card more than almost anything else is an autograph. For whatever the reason, people are willing to pay much more for a card that has been signed by the player than one that is unsigned.
The best way to determine the approximate monetary value of baseball cards.
Although the sports memorabilia industry has taken a serious hit in popularity in recent years, baseball cards can still be both an enjoyable and profitable hobby. Although a specific baseball card is really only worth as much as someone is willing to pay for it, there are several things that can make a card very valuable.
Obviously, the rarest cards will be the most valuable simply because there is a very limited market for them. Usually the older a card is the fewer copies of it are in circulation. So chances are if you find a very old baseball card it will be worth a significant amount. Of course, perhaps even more important than the age of the card is whose picture is on it. There will be very little demand for a card of a player who only played for a year or two and had no impact on the game. But a Hall of Famer's card will be worth a significant amount.
Cards that were put out in a player's first year in the league, known as rookie cards, will also be worth more than cards put out in a later year. The one thing that can increase the value of a good card more than almost anything else is an autograph. For whatever the reason, people are willing to pay much more for a card that has been signed by the player than one that is unsigned.
Saturday, February 21, 2009
Collecting Redman Tobacco Cards 1952-1955
Collecting Redman Tobacco Cards 1952-1955
For four years in the 1950s, Redman tobacco company produced baseball cards that have captured the fancy of collectors seeking vintage cards at reasonable prices 1952 marked the first year of the giant of the baseball card industry. Topps Chewing Gum became a household name for baseball fans for their annual card issues. But another company also began producing cards in 1952. Redman tobacco issues lasted only four years, but they remain some of the most beautiful baseball cards around.
Tobacco was a popular product for the distribution of baseball cards back in the early 1900s. But there were few tobacco issues after the 1920s. Finally, Redman came along and issued one card per tobacco pouch in 1952. The players in the 52-card set were chosen by The Sporting News. Measuring 3 1/2" by 4" including a detachable tab at the bottom, the cards featured many of the stars of the day like Ted Williams, Stan Musial and a young Willie Mays. The tab could be detached for a free Redman baseball cap and, of course, many of them were detached. Today, cards with the tabs still attached carrry a premium. Collectors willing to settle for "tab-less" cards can find some great bargains compared to Topps or Bowman cards of the same vintage as they are worth 30-40 percent of the value of the cards WITH the tabs attached. The cards feature portraits of the players with biographical information on the front.
Redman continued to produce its cards in 1953, 1954 and 1955. The complete sets all carry a book value of between $650 and $2700, depending on condition. There were 52 cards issued in 1952 and 53 and 50 in 1954 and '55. The cards are numbered 1 through 25 or 26 with an "A" or "N" behind the number designated for "American" or "National" League with an even number of players from each league represented.
There are variations of a few cards in the 1954 set, with players having been traded during card production having one variation featuring them as members of one team and a second variation with their new team. The cards issued after the trades carry a slightly higher premium.
For four years in the 1950s, Redman tobacco company produced baseball cards that have captured the fancy of collectors seeking vintage cards at reasonable prices 1952 marked the first year of the giant of the baseball card industry. Topps Chewing Gum became a household name for baseball fans for their annual card issues. But another company also began producing cards in 1952. Redman tobacco issues lasted only four years, but they remain some of the most beautiful baseball cards around.
Tobacco was a popular product for the distribution of baseball cards back in the early 1900s. But there were few tobacco issues after the 1920s. Finally, Redman came along and issued one card per tobacco pouch in 1952. The players in the 52-card set were chosen by The Sporting News. Measuring 3 1/2" by 4" including a detachable tab at the bottom, the cards featured many of the stars of the day like Ted Williams, Stan Musial and a young Willie Mays. The tab could be detached for a free Redman baseball cap and, of course, many of them were detached. Today, cards with the tabs still attached carrry a premium. Collectors willing to settle for "tab-less" cards can find some great bargains compared to Topps or Bowman cards of the same vintage as they are worth 30-40 percent of the value of the cards WITH the tabs attached. The cards feature portraits of the players with biographical information on the front.
Redman continued to produce its cards in 1953, 1954 and 1955. The complete sets all carry a book value of between $650 and $2700, depending on condition. There were 52 cards issued in 1952 and 53 and 50 in 1954 and '55. The cards are numbered 1 through 25 or 26 with an "A" or "N" behind the number designated for "American" or "National" League with an even number of players from each league represented.
There are variations of a few cards in the 1954 set, with players having been traded during card production having one variation featuring them as members of one team and a second variation with their new team. The cards issued after the trades carry a slightly higher premium.
Friday, February 20, 2009
Collect Old Jewelry
Collect Old Jewelry
Collecting old jewelry can be fun and profitable. Old jewelry can be found in many places. Its like finging a lost treasure each time you buy a piece.
I've been collecting old jewelry for many years. Some of it I sell and some I cannot part with. Old jewelry can be found at flea markets, yard sales and estate sales.
You'll need to do a little research on what kinds of jewelry to look for that will add value to your collection. In the beginning, I only bought pieces that appealed to me. I soon discovered that sometimes the pieces that I dislike could have great value. You will need to know how to spot these pieces and a little research goes a long way.
Cameos can be very valuable. Scenic cameos can be generally more expensive than bust cameos. Scenic cameos usually include a scene of a cottage, bridge and girl.
Glass beads are always a good value and many places will buy them.
Always look carefully at the jewelry that you find at yard sales and thrift stores. I've found many pieces of gold and made quite a nice profit on them. One time I found a watch that I paid 1.00 for and I sold it to a jeweler right away for 50.00. Always look for watches, you never know what you may find.
Buy a bottle of Tarnex. You'll be finding a lot of silver. It's so much fun cleaning them and discovering a beautiful piece of jewelry. I've found a lot of Mexican silver. This silver is so beautiful that I could never part with it.
Another thing that will make your collecting much easier are flat plastic trays with lids. They have compartments so that you can organize your jewelry. This will make it so much easier when you're looking for a particular piece. These trays can be bought at any home supply or department store.
Another thing that you'll need is a magnifying glass. This will help you to identify markings to determine whether it's gold or not and the designer's name. These are usually stamped on the back of the piece.
You'll also need a gold testing kit. These are little bottles of acid. You scatch a place that can't be seen on the piece to test it. The magnifying glass and gold testing kit can be bought at any jewelry supply store.
Collecting old jewelry can be fun and profitable. Old jewelry can be found in many places. Its like finging a lost treasure each time you buy a piece.
I've been collecting old jewelry for many years. Some of it I sell and some I cannot part with. Old jewelry can be found at flea markets, yard sales and estate sales.
You'll need to do a little research on what kinds of jewelry to look for that will add value to your collection. In the beginning, I only bought pieces that appealed to me. I soon discovered that sometimes the pieces that I dislike could have great value. You will need to know how to spot these pieces and a little research goes a long way.
Cameos can be very valuable. Scenic cameos can be generally more expensive than bust cameos. Scenic cameos usually include a scene of a cottage, bridge and girl.
Glass beads are always a good value and many places will buy them.
Always look carefully at the jewelry that you find at yard sales and thrift stores. I've found many pieces of gold and made quite a nice profit on them. One time I found a watch that I paid 1.00 for and I sold it to a jeweler right away for 50.00. Always look for watches, you never know what you may find.
Buy a bottle of Tarnex. You'll be finding a lot of silver. It's so much fun cleaning them and discovering a beautiful piece of jewelry. I've found a lot of Mexican silver. This silver is so beautiful that I could never part with it.
Another thing that will make your collecting much easier are flat plastic trays with lids. They have compartments so that you can organize your jewelry. This will make it so much easier when you're looking for a particular piece. These trays can be bought at any home supply or department store.
Another thing that you'll need is a magnifying glass. This will help you to identify markings to determine whether it's gold or not and the designer's name. These are usually stamped on the back of the piece.
You'll also need a gold testing kit. These are little bottles of acid. You scatch a place that can't be seen on the piece to test it. The magnifying glass and gold testing kit can be bought at any jewelry supply store.
Thursday, February 19, 2009
Collecting Sports Illustrated Magazines
Collecting Sports Illustrated Magazines
Collectors of sports memorabilia are fond of Sports Illustrated. This weekly magazine is America's top sports publication. Here's an overview.
Sports Illustrated magazine began publishing in August of 1954. The magazine has continued to thrive in the 46 years since, gaining millions of new readers and even collectors of the greatest weekly chronicle of American sports.
Milwaukee Braves' slugger Eddie Mathews adorned the first cover. But the debut issue included something even better: baseball cards; or at least replicas of the '54 Topps set. An insert in the issue, the "cards" have made issue number one a favorite. TIME Inc., the parent publisher, apparently stored several hundred issues back then and recently began selling them at $150-200 each; expensive but about what mint copies of the original are worth. The second issue of SI and two more in 1955 also contained the "card" insert and carry a premium value.
SI is most valuable without a mailing label on the cover. These issues, purchased at the newsstand, increase the value by about 25%. Condition is important. Magazines with water or mildew damage, loose covers or other problems, have little value, even from the 1950s.
Cover subjects will increase the interest and value in a particular issue as well. Any superstars like Mickey Mantle, Michael Jordan or Ted Williams will drive the price of an issue upward. However, in the 1950s and early 60s, SI was really a "sportsman's magazine" and carried articles and covers about fishing, hunting, water skiing, and dogs. These issues can be found for $5 and less at sports memorabilia shows and on-line auction sites.
Storing your SIs is easy. Just go to a card or comic book show and purchase a pack of "magazine bags" and "backer boards". Slip the issues inside of these, and store them in a box, preferably indoors and away from humidity and heat.
Collectors of sports memorabilia are fond of Sports Illustrated. This weekly magazine is America's top sports publication. Here's an overview.
Sports Illustrated magazine began publishing in August of 1954. The magazine has continued to thrive in the 46 years since, gaining millions of new readers and even collectors of the greatest weekly chronicle of American sports.
Milwaukee Braves' slugger Eddie Mathews adorned the first cover. But the debut issue included something even better: baseball cards; or at least replicas of the '54 Topps set. An insert in the issue, the "cards" have made issue number one a favorite. TIME Inc., the parent publisher, apparently stored several hundred issues back then and recently began selling them at $150-200 each; expensive but about what mint copies of the original are worth. The second issue of SI and two more in 1955 also contained the "card" insert and carry a premium value.
SI is most valuable without a mailing label on the cover. These issues, purchased at the newsstand, increase the value by about 25%. Condition is important. Magazines with water or mildew damage, loose covers or other problems, have little value, even from the 1950s.
Cover subjects will increase the interest and value in a particular issue as well. Any superstars like Mickey Mantle, Michael Jordan or Ted Williams will drive the price of an issue upward. However, in the 1950s and early 60s, SI was really a "sportsman's magazine" and carried articles and covers about fishing, hunting, water skiing, and dogs. These issues can be found for $5 and less at sports memorabilia shows and on-line auction sites.
Storing your SIs is easy. Just go to a card or comic book show and purchase a pack of "magazine bags" and "backer boards". Slip the issues inside of these, and store them in a box, preferably indoors and away from humidity and heat.
Wednesday, February 18, 2009
Lost In Space Toys And Collectibles
Lost In Space Toys And Collectibles
Lost in Space toys and collectibles are coming your way! Warning, warning, Danger Will Robinson!
What do you think of when you hear these words, "Warning! Warning! Danger, Will Robinson." If you're like millions of other baby boomers, you recognize that phrase as part of television history in the form of Lost in Space.
In 1965, producer Irwin Allen took us along on a great adventure. Tucked safely inside the Jupiter II, the Robinson family began their journey with hopes of becoming the first family to colonize Alpha Centaury. They never made it. Thanks to the devilish doings of Dr. Zachary Smith, the Robinsons and their companions ended up hopelessly Lost in Space. Guy Williams gave up the mask of Zorro and became Professor John Robinson, the Dad of the future. At his side was wife Maureen, June Lockhart of Lassie fame. They were joined by their children. Judy, the oldest was played by new comer Marta Kristen. The two youngest Robinson children, Will and Penny, were both played by veteran TV and movie actors. Angela Cartwright and Billy Mumy had dozens of rolls under their belt when they joined the cast. Quite an accomplishment for two who together were less than 20 years old. Finishing off the original crew was Major Don West, played by handsome heart throb of the day, Mark Goddard. West was setup to be a love interest for Judy in the early episodes but network censors found the idea of a "child" having romantic encounters in space to much to handle.
When the Robinsons made their first lift off before the network brass they were without two very important characters. Both Dr. Smith and the Robot were added at a later time. Television staple Jonathan Harris was handed the roll of the villainous Dr. Smith. And in the beginning he was villainous - indeed. In the second version of the pilot, Smith sabotages the Jupiter but is trapped inside just before lift off. The robot became Smith's evil henchman aiding him in his plot to kill the Robinsons. Hardly the Smith most people remember. According to Harris, changing Smith from all bad to the bumbling adversary became was his way of assuring a steady paycheck. And sure enough, Smith's scheming and dreaming became the high point of the series.
If you're a true fan, you probably remember Lost in Space's black and white beginnings with it's serious tone and dark mood. Most people, however, recall the later episodes with their colorful creatures, lighter tone and just for fun plot lines. Since the series was well watched by the young, Lost in Space toys were plentiful in the mid-sixties. Today, licensed merchandise from the show are some of the most sought after toys in their category. Well made, highly imaginative toys from Remco and Mattel top the auction charts with prices that soar up to 20,000 dollars for a single item. There is almost nothing in the line that can be bought for under 100 dollars and most are way above.
Topping the market for Lost in Space toys is the Roto Jet Gun by Mattel. The gun was packaged in a large 24 x 14 box. The box art is very stylish with artwork of the cast members using the guns against a couple of marauding Cyclops monsters. The gun was a rifle style with several different attachments including one that shot small round discs.
Right up there in price is the Switch and Go Set by Remco. This Sears Christmas exclusive came with a very detailed chariot that ran around a track with figures and a Styrofoam Jupiter II. It was part of a line of Switch and Go toys that included Batman as well as a few generic themes. Due to the size of the toy when packaged, Sears repackaged many in plain brown boxes for mailing. Only store bought versions came with the full color box. Since there were many little figures and pieces in the set, finding one complete and still in the box is an amazing feat. Boxed sets have been known to sell for over 10,000 dollars at auction.
Though not as pricey as some other toys, Remco's Lost in Space Robot is one of the most cherished pieces from the line. The 12 inch high motorized robot is not a tough find but still he causes quite a stir. The toy is stout, completely out of proportion compared to the robot on the show and it was molded in red or blue plastic. The battery operated toy walks and blinks and has a lever in his back that moves his claw arms. While hardly a model of advanced engineering, the Robot has a certain undefinable charm. Again, look for the box to really add value to the toy
In the game category look for two items with very varied price tags. The Remco 3-D Fun Set is a board game designed with three levels of cardboard supported by plastic pillars for a futuristic 3-D look. Sort of like the 3-D chess made popular on Star Trek. The game included 4 generic space figures and other than the photos on the box, it had no resemblance to anything on the series. The game is fairly rare and the unusual design keeps it in the over 500 dollar category.
At the other end of the credit card is the Lost in Space Board Game by Milton Bradley. The board uses a grid style playing field instead of the usual trail of squares and the entire background in a highly detailed space scene. This combined with the nice box graphics keeps it in the low 100 range. High for a basic board game of the sixties, but low compared to the other toys in the line.
Aurora, king of the monster models, had several hits with the Lost in Space licensing. The rarest set is the Large Cyclops Diorama which sells for up to 1500 dollars. During the first issue the model came with a Cyclops, figures of the Robinsons and a mountain setting. The box art is excellent and even empty boxes sell for over 100 dollars. When the kit was reissued in 1967 Aurora added a larger base and a model of the Chariot. With this kit, even the model instructions are being sold for 25 to 30 dollars. The model Robot kit by Aurora also sells for 500 to 800 dollars. The 6" high model of robot with a base originally sold for $1.00. The thin vertical box has a terrific graphic of the robot shooting lightning bolts out of his claw. Like most model kits, keeping them un-built in the box retains their value. If you have to have a build up buy a recasting, sometimes called a garage kit. These look just like the original when you're done but you can buy them at a quarter of the price.
Lastly, you may have heard rumors of a set of Lost in Space action figures. These are actually a set of dolls produced by Marusan in Japan. The dolls came dressed in spacesuits each in their own freezing tube with a colorful paper insert (written in Japanese). The likenesses are poor and the workmanship is terrible but ugly as they are, they are still highly collectable since they were never released here in America. Plan on forking over at least a thousand dollars for each of the seven.
For die hard collectors there are dozens of other Lost in Space items available. Several foreign companies have produced carded space guns, walkie talkies and imitation robots. Highly detailed models have been produced by Lunar Models and Matsudya has a replica of the robot that far beats the Remco toy. Even now, thirty years later, fans are still marketing T-shirts, hats, badges and pins. You can buy Lost in Space comics, the soundtrack on CD and the entire set of episodes in installments from Columbia House. And now with a new movie on the horizon, Lost in Space is bound to soar higher than ever before. Still, nothing is cooler than a good old fashioned sixties plastic toy with blinking lights, and beeping sounds and a box that says "As seen on TV." Get Lost --in space.
Lost in Space toys and collectibles are coming your way! Warning, warning, Danger Will Robinson!
What do you think of when you hear these words, "Warning! Warning! Danger, Will Robinson." If you're like millions of other baby boomers, you recognize that phrase as part of television history in the form of Lost in Space.
In 1965, producer Irwin Allen took us along on a great adventure. Tucked safely inside the Jupiter II, the Robinson family began their journey with hopes of becoming the first family to colonize Alpha Centaury. They never made it. Thanks to the devilish doings of Dr. Zachary Smith, the Robinsons and their companions ended up hopelessly Lost in Space. Guy Williams gave up the mask of Zorro and became Professor John Robinson, the Dad of the future. At his side was wife Maureen, June Lockhart of Lassie fame. They were joined by their children. Judy, the oldest was played by new comer Marta Kristen. The two youngest Robinson children, Will and Penny, were both played by veteran TV and movie actors. Angela Cartwright and Billy Mumy had dozens of rolls under their belt when they joined the cast. Quite an accomplishment for two who together were less than 20 years old. Finishing off the original crew was Major Don West, played by handsome heart throb of the day, Mark Goddard. West was setup to be a love interest for Judy in the early episodes but network censors found the idea of a "child" having romantic encounters in space to much to handle.
When the Robinsons made their first lift off before the network brass they were without two very important characters. Both Dr. Smith and the Robot were added at a later time. Television staple Jonathan Harris was handed the roll of the villainous Dr. Smith. And in the beginning he was villainous - indeed. In the second version of the pilot, Smith sabotages the Jupiter but is trapped inside just before lift off. The robot became Smith's evil henchman aiding him in his plot to kill the Robinsons. Hardly the Smith most people remember. According to Harris, changing Smith from all bad to the bumbling adversary became was his way of assuring a steady paycheck. And sure enough, Smith's scheming and dreaming became the high point of the series.
If you're a true fan, you probably remember Lost in Space's black and white beginnings with it's serious tone and dark mood. Most people, however, recall the later episodes with their colorful creatures, lighter tone and just for fun plot lines. Since the series was well watched by the young, Lost in Space toys were plentiful in the mid-sixties. Today, licensed merchandise from the show are some of the most sought after toys in their category. Well made, highly imaginative toys from Remco and Mattel top the auction charts with prices that soar up to 20,000 dollars for a single item. There is almost nothing in the line that can be bought for under 100 dollars and most are way above.
Topping the market for Lost in Space toys is the Roto Jet Gun by Mattel. The gun was packaged in a large 24 x 14 box. The box art is very stylish with artwork of the cast members using the guns against a couple of marauding Cyclops monsters. The gun was a rifle style with several different attachments including one that shot small round discs.
Right up there in price is the Switch and Go Set by Remco. This Sears Christmas exclusive came with a very detailed chariot that ran around a track with figures and a Styrofoam Jupiter II. It was part of a line of Switch and Go toys that included Batman as well as a few generic themes. Due to the size of the toy when packaged, Sears repackaged many in plain brown boxes for mailing. Only store bought versions came with the full color box. Since there were many little figures and pieces in the set, finding one complete and still in the box is an amazing feat. Boxed sets have been known to sell for over 10,000 dollars at auction.
Though not as pricey as some other toys, Remco's Lost in Space Robot is one of the most cherished pieces from the line. The 12 inch high motorized robot is not a tough find but still he causes quite a stir. The toy is stout, completely out of proportion compared to the robot on the show and it was molded in red or blue plastic. The battery operated toy walks and blinks and has a lever in his back that moves his claw arms. While hardly a model of advanced engineering, the Robot has a certain undefinable charm. Again, look for the box to really add value to the toy
In the game category look for two items with very varied price tags. The Remco 3-D Fun Set is a board game designed with three levels of cardboard supported by plastic pillars for a futuristic 3-D look. Sort of like the 3-D chess made popular on Star Trek. The game included 4 generic space figures and other than the photos on the box, it had no resemblance to anything on the series. The game is fairly rare and the unusual design keeps it in the over 500 dollar category.
At the other end of the credit card is the Lost in Space Board Game by Milton Bradley. The board uses a grid style playing field instead of the usual trail of squares and the entire background in a highly detailed space scene. This combined with the nice box graphics keeps it in the low 100 range. High for a basic board game of the sixties, but low compared to the other toys in the line.
Aurora, king of the monster models, had several hits with the Lost in Space licensing. The rarest set is the Large Cyclops Diorama which sells for up to 1500 dollars. During the first issue the model came with a Cyclops, figures of the Robinsons and a mountain setting. The box art is excellent and even empty boxes sell for over 100 dollars. When the kit was reissued in 1967 Aurora added a larger base and a model of the Chariot. With this kit, even the model instructions are being sold for 25 to 30 dollars. The model Robot kit by Aurora also sells for 500 to 800 dollars. The 6" high model of robot with a base originally sold for $1.00. The thin vertical box has a terrific graphic of the robot shooting lightning bolts out of his claw. Like most model kits, keeping them un-built in the box retains their value. If you have to have a build up buy a recasting, sometimes called a garage kit. These look just like the original when you're done but you can buy them at a quarter of the price.
Lastly, you may have heard rumors of a set of Lost in Space action figures. These are actually a set of dolls produced by Marusan in Japan. The dolls came dressed in spacesuits each in their own freezing tube with a colorful paper insert (written in Japanese). The likenesses are poor and the workmanship is terrible but ugly as they are, they are still highly collectable since they were never released here in America. Plan on forking over at least a thousand dollars for each of the seven.
For die hard collectors there are dozens of other Lost in Space items available. Several foreign companies have produced carded space guns, walkie talkies and imitation robots. Highly detailed models have been produced by Lunar Models and Matsudya has a replica of the robot that far beats the Remco toy. Even now, thirty years later, fans are still marketing T-shirts, hats, badges and pins. You can buy Lost in Space comics, the soundtrack on CD and the entire set of episodes in installments from Columbia House. And now with a new movie on the horizon, Lost in Space is bound to soar higher than ever before. Still, nothing is cooler than a good old fashioned sixties plastic toy with blinking lights, and beeping sounds and a box that says "As seen on TV." Get Lost --in space.
Tuesday, February 17, 2009
Collecting Jelly Jars
Collecting Jelly Jars
Remember those old Scooby-Doo jelly jars that you loved as a kid? Whether you're still trying to collect the whole set, or just interested in the history of giveaway glassware, check here.
A type of eminently practical recycling began in the 1870s, when companies began using reusable jars as the containers for their products (potted meat being first, soon followed by jelly and jam). Thrifty housewives appreciated this turn in marketing, and began incorporating these free jars into their own kitchen use.
Although steadily sold, it was the Depression that made these reusable jelly jars popular. Desperate to stay in business, companies became more inventive in their designs and advertising, frequently using the lids to sell other products made by the company. Tempted by the attractive gingham and flowered patterns, housewives continued to buy the products, and save the jars. Every member of the family could enjoy the rewards of this thriftiness. Children could drink out of the pretty glasses, since they were thick and unlikely to break, and were after all, free. (Kraft's Swanky Swigs line played into this use, trying to make them into acceptable party glasses for adults). Dad could use them for storing nails and bolts, making his workshop a tad more tidy. And Mother could use them for inexpensive vases for a child's bouquet or for storing buttons, spools, or the leftovers from last night's dinner.
During the 1950s, advertisers began to tie their product lines with television, whether cartoon characters or TV stars. Nursery rhymes and college fight songs were also popular, designed to create a desire for the entire line in order to complete the collection. Disney made deals with local dairies to have Mickey Mouse's face grace bottles of milk.
Collecting jelly jars is still an inexpensive hobby. Due to their inherent strength, many still exist and can be picked up for a few cents to a few dollars at garage sales and flea markets. Those wanting to concentrate on a brand may want to consider Fire-King, which began producing cottage cheese bowls in 1942. Frequently used as a promotion for gas stations or movie theaters, these depression-style glass items have a wide variety of styles. On-line auctions such as Ebay are a great place to start.
So take a nostalgic look back-were you only missing the Velma glass out of the Scooby-Doo collection, or would you like an attractive collectible to inexpensively add pizzaz to your kitchen? Either way, collecting giveaway glassware is the way to go.
Remember those old Scooby-Doo jelly jars that you loved as a kid? Whether you're still trying to collect the whole set, or just interested in the history of giveaway glassware, check here.
A type of eminently practical recycling began in the 1870s, when companies began using reusable jars as the containers for their products (potted meat being first, soon followed by jelly and jam). Thrifty housewives appreciated this turn in marketing, and began incorporating these free jars into their own kitchen use.
Although steadily sold, it was the Depression that made these reusable jelly jars popular. Desperate to stay in business, companies became more inventive in their designs and advertising, frequently using the lids to sell other products made by the company. Tempted by the attractive gingham and flowered patterns, housewives continued to buy the products, and save the jars. Every member of the family could enjoy the rewards of this thriftiness. Children could drink out of the pretty glasses, since they were thick and unlikely to break, and were after all, free. (Kraft's Swanky Swigs line played into this use, trying to make them into acceptable party glasses for adults). Dad could use them for storing nails and bolts, making his workshop a tad more tidy. And Mother could use them for inexpensive vases for a child's bouquet or for storing buttons, spools, or the leftovers from last night's dinner.
During the 1950s, advertisers began to tie their product lines with television, whether cartoon characters or TV stars. Nursery rhymes and college fight songs were also popular, designed to create a desire for the entire line in order to complete the collection. Disney made deals with local dairies to have Mickey Mouse's face grace bottles of milk.
Collecting jelly jars is still an inexpensive hobby. Due to their inherent strength, many still exist and can be picked up for a few cents to a few dollars at garage sales and flea markets. Those wanting to concentrate on a brand may want to consider Fire-King, which began producing cottage cheese bowls in 1942. Frequently used as a promotion for gas stations or movie theaters, these depression-style glass items have a wide variety of styles. On-line auctions such as Ebay are a great place to start.
So take a nostalgic look back-were you only missing the Velma glass out of the Scooby-Doo collection, or would you like an attractive collectible to inexpensively add pizzaz to your kitchen? Either way, collecting giveaway glassware is the way to go.
Monday, February 16, 2009
Tips For Appraising Antiques
Tips For Appraising Antiques
The collecting of antiques can be a fun pastime. Learn how to appraise your antiques.
Found at specialty stores, flea markets, rummage sales, and even grandmother's attic. Almost anyone on any sized budget can find something to his or her liking. Antiques range from under a dollar to astronomical figures.
If shopping for the latter, you would be best to have an item appraised and buy only through reputable dealers. There have been cases where items sold, with supposedly authentic appraisals, were still fakes. So be aware of who you are dealing with. It is never wrong to be too careful in your research of both the item and the seller. Higher priced items are reproduced solely for the fact of misleading the buyer.
The everyday 'antique' can also have recent copies filling shelves, sometimes right alongside the real McCoy.
Receiving authentication in writing is common practice from large dealers of fine art and antiques. However, what if we are just shopping for the average priced item? There are many tips and safeguards you can take yourself to avoid being ripped off. Be warned though, that even the most perceptive antique buyer can be fooled.
The first step you should take is to become familiar with the type of item you are looking to purchase. If your liking leans towards old tin toys or a certain pottery, see if you can find someone that has a collection or even a piece or two for you to inspect. Town museums are an excellent place to view the real thing. Purchasing a book of markings is necessary. The simple omission or adding of one line or letter can be the difference in hundreds of years. An example being Henry Bonnard and Henry-Bonnard. The '-' on these bronze sculptures meaning a difference in the manufacture date of over a hundred years.
Paper, such as calendars, postcards, and books, are copied on a regular basis today. Look for yellowing and fading. If a paper item looks new, it most likely is. Unless paper is stored in an acid free environment, it will start to deteriorate in just a few short years.
Many early postcards are being copied and sold as reproductions. Once into the public's hands though, secondary buyers are not aware that what they are purchasing is a copy. Postcards, if copies, should have a new copyright date on the back. When dealing with any paper items, always look for the copyright date. Books should be marked on the inside. Picture calendars should have a copyright date by the artist's name. Do not assume that you can tell a calendar by the year. Still look for the copyright date to assure yourself that it is not a reproduction. Wedding certificates, baptismal records, titles for antique cars, even old picture catalogs, have all been reproduced.
Tin advertising signs from days gone by are another item sold commonly as a reproduction, but once out there, many times being re-sold as the original thing. Again, look carefully for copyright dates. Become familiar with how the tin edges fold on an original, and how the reproduction edges differ. A good rule to always carry with you is "if it looks too new, it most likely is". Never assume that if it is rusty, it is old. Rust can occur in very short periods.
In determining a copy or fake, look for wear on an item, called 'marks of time'. Even the most cared for items will most likely have wear. Linens would have fold marks from being stored, paper products, again, commonly yellow or fade. Tin toys, which are exceedingly becoming a more commonly copied item, should not look too new. Are the colors too bright? Use your instinct when all else fails you.
While not an antique, at least yet, but a collectible that is a good example of how fakes can work their way into the market, are Beanies. When these became popular, copies with minor differences started cropping up almost immediately. Beanies bear a very distinctive tag, and some fakes were recognizable by the different ink on these.
Always be aware of minor identifying marks or peculiarities on items if possible. The more familiar you become with the type of antiques you are looking to acquire, the less chance you will have of being ripped off. Remember, when purchasing antiques, with the exception of buying from a dealer who gives guarantees, there are no guarantees. So buy what you like, never buy for value, and that way, you will never be disappointed.
The collecting of antiques can be a fun pastime. Learn how to appraise your antiques.
Found at specialty stores, flea markets, rummage sales, and even grandmother's attic. Almost anyone on any sized budget can find something to his or her liking. Antiques range from under a dollar to astronomical figures.
If shopping for the latter, you would be best to have an item appraised and buy only through reputable dealers. There have been cases where items sold, with supposedly authentic appraisals, were still fakes. So be aware of who you are dealing with. It is never wrong to be too careful in your research of both the item and the seller. Higher priced items are reproduced solely for the fact of misleading the buyer.
The everyday 'antique' can also have recent copies filling shelves, sometimes right alongside the real McCoy.
Receiving authentication in writing is common practice from large dealers of fine art and antiques. However, what if we are just shopping for the average priced item? There are many tips and safeguards you can take yourself to avoid being ripped off. Be warned though, that even the most perceptive antique buyer can be fooled.
The first step you should take is to become familiar with the type of item you are looking to purchase. If your liking leans towards old tin toys or a certain pottery, see if you can find someone that has a collection or even a piece or two for you to inspect. Town museums are an excellent place to view the real thing. Purchasing a book of markings is necessary. The simple omission or adding of one line or letter can be the difference in hundreds of years. An example being Henry Bonnard and Henry-Bonnard. The '-' on these bronze sculptures meaning a difference in the manufacture date of over a hundred years.
Paper, such as calendars, postcards, and books, are copied on a regular basis today. Look for yellowing and fading. If a paper item looks new, it most likely is. Unless paper is stored in an acid free environment, it will start to deteriorate in just a few short years.
Many early postcards are being copied and sold as reproductions. Once into the public's hands though, secondary buyers are not aware that what they are purchasing is a copy. Postcards, if copies, should have a new copyright date on the back. When dealing with any paper items, always look for the copyright date. Books should be marked on the inside. Picture calendars should have a copyright date by the artist's name. Do not assume that you can tell a calendar by the year. Still look for the copyright date to assure yourself that it is not a reproduction. Wedding certificates, baptismal records, titles for antique cars, even old picture catalogs, have all been reproduced.
Tin advertising signs from days gone by are another item sold commonly as a reproduction, but once out there, many times being re-sold as the original thing. Again, look carefully for copyright dates. Become familiar with how the tin edges fold on an original, and how the reproduction edges differ. A good rule to always carry with you is "if it looks too new, it most likely is". Never assume that if it is rusty, it is old. Rust can occur in very short periods.
In determining a copy or fake, look for wear on an item, called 'marks of time'. Even the most cared for items will most likely have wear. Linens would have fold marks from being stored, paper products, again, commonly yellow or fade. Tin toys, which are exceedingly becoming a more commonly copied item, should not look too new. Are the colors too bright? Use your instinct when all else fails you.
While not an antique, at least yet, but a collectible that is a good example of how fakes can work their way into the market, are Beanies. When these became popular, copies with minor differences started cropping up almost immediately. Beanies bear a very distinctive tag, and some fakes were recognizable by the different ink on these.
Always be aware of minor identifying marks or peculiarities on items if possible. The more familiar you become with the type of antiques you are looking to acquire, the less chance you will have of being ripped off. Remember, when purchasing antiques, with the exception of buying from a dealer who gives guarantees, there are no guarantees. So buy what you like, never buy for value, and that way, you will never be disappointed.
Sunday, February 15, 2009
Matchbox Car Collecting
Matchbox Car Collecting
Matchbox car collecting: Imagine owning a Jaguar XK 140 Coupe, or a Mercedes-Benz 230SL. How about a Porsche 928 or a Rolls Royce Silver Shadow? You can! Welcome to the world of Matchbox.
Imagine owning a Jaguar XK 140 Coupe, or a Mercedes-Benz 230SL. How about a Porsche 928 or a Rolls Royce Silver Shadow? Hey, you don't have to be Jay Leno to own all these cars. You can have all of them and more and you won't need an extra large garage to house them, a simple carrying case will do. Welcome to the world of Matchbox.
Matchbox cars began in England in the 1940's. Friends Leslie Smith and Rodney Smith (unrelated, despite the last name) decided to build on a dream when they left the English Royal Navy after World War II. They combined their names to create the Lesney Products company without any idea of what kind of 'product' they would build. Fate and luck sent them the skills and equipment to do die cast work and they began making parts for businesses. During a lull in business, Lesney tried its hand at making die cast toys, which it sold through a Woolworth's in London at Christmas. The toys were considered, cheap, toss-aways by the stores, but kids wanted more and more.
The first vehicle to be produced was an Aveling Bardford road rollar (which was reproduced in 1962 under the Matchbox name). Within five years, they had developed a small line of die cast toys which included animals and fishing novelties. These toys were much larger than the cars we know today, but in 1953, the company began its 1-75 series which became so popular they stopped making the larger variety of toys.
In 1954, the company began using the Matchbox name on the cardboard boxes which held the 1-75 series. Although the cars were available for sale in the US, the company was still operating from Europe. In 1964, Lesney opened its first US base of operations and it was just in time to face what would become its life-long competitor - Hot Wheels by Mattel
Lesney tried hard to redesign their cars to keep up with the fast wheeling cars from Mattel. As the years went on, they tried to diversify by acquiring Vogue Dolls and AMT models but money troubles and freak accidents kept the company in the red. In the 1980's the company changed hands and Matchbox cars lost the Lesney name and were re-christened "Matchbox Toys Ltd.".
In the 1980's, Matchbox Toys once again tried to diversify with disastrous results. The company was responsible for the Freddy Kreuger talking doll from Nightmare on Elmstreet among other strangely inappropriate toys. Money troubles led to the company being purchased by Tyco Toys, famous for their electric trains and the license remains with them today.
For more than fifty years, kids and grown-ups have collected Matchbox cars. They've bought them from the toy stores, flea markets and high-priced auctions. You can join the Matchbox International Collector's Association or one of a dozen regional clubs all dedicated to seeking out that one perfect car you need to finish your collection.
Matchbox car collecting: Imagine owning a Jaguar XK 140 Coupe, or a Mercedes-Benz 230SL. How about a Porsche 928 or a Rolls Royce Silver Shadow? You can! Welcome to the world of Matchbox.
Imagine owning a Jaguar XK 140 Coupe, or a Mercedes-Benz 230SL. How about a Porsche 928 or a Rolls Royce Silver Shadow? Hey, you don't have to be Jay Leno to own all these cars. You can have all of them and more and you won't need an extra large garage to house them, a simple carrying case will do. Welcome to the world of Matchbox.
Matchbox cars began in England in the 1940's. Friends Leslie Smith and Rodney Smith (unrelated, despite the last name) decided to build on a dream when they left the English Royal Navy after World War II. They combined their names to create the Lesney Products company without any idea of what kind of 'product' they would build. Fate and luck sent them the skills and equipment to do die cast work and they began making parts for businesses. During a lull in business, Lesney tried its hand at making die cast toys, which it sold through a Woolworth's in London at Christmas. The toys were considered, cheap, toss-aways by the stores, but kids wanted more and more.
The first vehicle to be produced was an Aveling Bardford road rollar (which was reproduced in 1962 under the Matchbox name). Within five years, they had developed a small line of die cast toys which included animals and fishing novelties. These toys were much larger than the cars we know today, but in 1953, the company began its 1-75 series which became so popular they stopped making the larger variety of toys.
In 1954, the company began using the Matchbox name on the cardboard boxes which held the 1-75 series. Although the cars were available for sale in the US, the company was still operating from Europe. In 1964, Lesney opened its first US base of operations and it was just in time to face what would become its life-long competitor - Hot Wheels by Mattel
Lesney tried hard to redesign their cars to keep up with the fast wheeling cars from Mattel. As the years went on, they tried to diversify by acquiring Vogue Dolls and AMT models but money troubles and freak accidents kept the company in the red. In the 1980's the company changed hands and Matchbox cars lost the Lesney name and were re-christened "Matchbox Toys Ltd.".
In the 1980's, Matchbox Toys once again tried to diversify with disastrous results. The company was responsible for the Freddy Kreuger talking doll from Nightmare on Elmstreet among other strangely inappropriate toys. Money troubles led to the company being purchased by Tyco Toys, famous for their electric trains and the license remains with them today.
For more than fifty years, kids and grown-ups have collected Matchbox cars. They've bought them from the toy stores, flea markets and high-priced auctions. You can join the Matchbox International Collector's Association or one of a dozen regional clubs all dedicated to seeking out that one perfect car you need to finish your collection.
Saturday, February 14, 2009
Free Celebrity Autograph Tips
Free Celebrity Autograph Tips
Free celebrity autographs are easy to get qith very little time or effort. This article will show you how to collect basically any celebrity's autograph.
Everyone at one time or another has wanted to get a certain celebrities autograph. Did you know that 95% of the celebrities out there will give you one for free? The best thing is you can do this from the comfort of your own home.
So how exactly do you go about this? It's easy, first you need to find their address, which is the hardest part of the entire process.
If you have a connection to the internet, you're in luck. There are numerous sites that have lists and lists of celebrity email and postal address. Most times you can just visit a fans site and they will have the items there.
If they have an email address you can write them a letter stating why you like them, why you are a fan and then just politely ask them if you may get an autograph of them and leave your address.
The worst that happens is the letter is returned to you user unknown, oh well try again. What else can happen? They write you back stating that they charge for their autograph. they write back saying that they'd be glad to send you an autograph or no response.
How to use the postal address you have. First you need to write them a letter same as for an email. Next, either pick out something that you'd like to have autographed or ask to have an autographed picture sent to you. Get two envelopes, make one Self-addressed Stamped {in other words addressed to yourself} you will always recieve your autograph back faster if you enclose this. Some celebrities will not even send you an autograph if you do not enclose one.
Make the other addressed to the celebrity. Don't forget your return address. Make sure that you put enough postage on both envelopes, then send everything in.
The waiting is the worst it can be anywhere from 2 weeks to 2 years. It all depends on how busy a celebrity is and if you enclosed a SASE.
Did you know that you can make a profit off of this? Let's say you paid 66 cents for the postage to get the autograph. Someone noticed your autograph and said that "they had to have it" you sell it for 5 dollars. That's a profit of $4.34, just for a little of your time. If you recieved the autograph via email you would have make 5 dollars for nothing.
Have fun and I hope your collection grows and grows.
Free celebrity autographs are easy to get qith very little time or effort. This article will show you how to collect basically any celebrity's autograph.
Everyone at one time or another has wanted to get a certain celebrities autograph. Did you know that 95% of the celebrities out there will give you one for free? The best thing is you can do this from the comfort of your own home.
So how exactly do you go about this? It's easy, first you need to find their address, which is the hardest part of the entire process.
If you have a connection to the internet, you're in luck. There are numerous sites that have lists and lists of celebrity email and postal address. Most times you can just visit a fans site and they will have the items there.
If they have an email address you can write them a letter stating why you like them, why you are a fan and then just politely ask them if you may get an autograph of them and leave your address.
The worst that happens is the letter is returned to you user unknown, oh well try again. What else can happen? They write you back stating that they charge for their autograph. they write back saying that they'd be glad to send you an autograph or no response.
How to use the postal address you have. First you need to write them a letter same as for an email. Next, either pick out something that you'd like to have autographed or ask to have an autographed picture sent to you. Get two envelopes, make one Self-addressed Stamped {in other words addressed to yourself} you will always recieve your autograph back faster if you enclose this. Some celebrities will not even send you an autograph if you do not enclose one.
Make the other addressed to the celebrity. Don't forget your return address. Make sure that you put enough postage on both envelopes, then send everything in.
The waiting is the worst it can be anywhere from 2 weeks to 2 years. It all depends on how busy a celebrity is and if you enclosed a SASE.
Did you know that you can make a profit off of this? Let's say you paid 66 cents for the postage to get the autograph. Someone noticed your autograph and said that "they had to have it" you sell it for 5 dollars. That's a profit of $4.34, just for a little of your time. If you recieved the autograph via email you would have make 5 dollars for nothing.
Have fun and I hope your collection grows and grows.
Friday, February 13, 2009
Kite Flying
Kite Flying
Learn more about kite flying, a fun and relaxing outdoor activity. Benjamin Franklin flew kites for science. Kites fly in Oriental festivals and competions.
Fascination with kites dates back many centuries. The first reference to kites and kite flying was in a Japanese dictionary around 900 AD, and the heavier-than-air devices were referred to as "paper hawks." Other information suggests that a Greek scientist, Archytas, first invented kites in the 5th century BC.
The Chinese and the Japanese cultures have always been the most enthusiastic kite fliers. Both countries have the perfect material for kites: bamboo to make the frame and silk for the sail and the bridle. Kites also have had more of a religious significance in the Orient and have been raised in hopes of guaranteeing a good harvest. Many times, stalks of rice were tied to the tail as an offering to the gods. Kites were sold during religious festivals or were used as charms against illness and bad luck.
Leonardo da Vinci displayed an ongoing interest in kites. He developed a way to span a river using one. His idea was later tested successfully during the construction of the first suspension bridge that was built across Niagara Falls. Leonardo's continued interest in kites also prompted him to draw many flying machine designs including those for a rudimentary helicopter and a parachute.
By the 1700s, kites were viewed mostly as a children's toy. It wasn't until 1752 that Benjamin Franklin rediscovered the simple kite's various uses. His most famous test is, of course, flying a kite during a thunderstorm and proving that lightning's properties are the same as electricity created in a lab.
Earlier aviators and students of aerodynamics also used kite technology in their efforts to put man into the sky. Military observers were routinely strapped to kites and raised into the air to spy on the enemy. And in WWII, kites were widely used as gunnery targets.
In Asia, kite flying has become a competitive sport. Kites are elaborately decorated and take on all sorts of shapes and sizes. Bells, whistles, and pipes are added so that when the wind passes through these devices, they make distinctive noises.
In China and Korea they've taken kite flying to an even higher level, that of "kite fighting." These are festivals where one or more battling kites are pitted against each other until a winner is declared or they crash.
Kite flying is also a great way to spend an afternoon with your kids, your family, or your friends. All that's needed is a little wind and a few hours practice. When buying a kite for the first time, check out hobby shops or kite shops and speak to someone familiar with the sport. You don't need to spend a lot of money on a kite, but do remember to buy one that suits your first time needs and your local wind conditions. A flimsy or poorly designed kite will be torn to shreds in minutes if the wind is too strong.
Once you've mastered simple kite flying, you may want to try "stunt" kiting. Stunt kites are more expensive and harder to control, but once you get the hang of flying one, you'll soon discover they maneuver and respond much more readily to your slightest hand movements.
Some die-hard enthusiasts even build their own kites. Hobby shops, kite shops, your local library or bookstore, or the Internet offer a wealth of information about building the perfect kite or getting in touch with other kite hobbyists.
Tips to remember while you're out flying your kite:
Learn more about kite flying, a fun and relaxing outdoor activity. Benjamin Franklin flew kites for science. Kites fly in Oriental festivals and competions.
Fascination with kites dates back many centuries. The first reference to kites and kite flying was in a Japanese dictionary around 900 AD, and the heavier-than-air devices were referred to as "paper hawks." Other information suggests that a Greek scientist, Archytas, first invented kites in the 5th century BC.
The Chinese and the Japanese cultures have always been the most enthusiastic kite fliers. Both countries have the perfect material for kites: bamboo to make the frame and silk for the sail and the bridle. Kites also have had more of a religious significance in the Orient and have been raised in hopes of guaranteeing a good harvest. Many times, stalks of rice were tied to the tail as an offering to the gods. Kites were sold during religious festivals or were used as charms against illness and bad luck.
Leonardo da Vinci displayed an ongoing interest in kites. He developed a way to span a river using one. His idea was later tested successfully during the construction of the first suspension bridge that was built across Niagara Falls. Leonardo's continued interest in kites also prompted him to draw many flying machine designs including those for a rudimentary helicopter and a parachute.
By the 1700s, kites were viewed mostly as a children's toy. It wasn't until 1752 that Benjamin Franklin rediscovered the simple kite's various uses. His most famous test is, of course, flying a kite during a thunderstorm and proving that lightning's properties are the same as electricity created in a lab.
Earlier aviators and students of aerodynamics also used kite technology in their efforts to put man into the sky. Military observers were routinely strapped to kites and raised into the air to spy on the enemy. And in WWII, kites were widely used as gunnery targets.
In Asia, kite flying has become a competitive sport. Kites are elaborately decorated and take on all sorts of shapes and sizes. Bells, whistles, and pipes are added so that when the wind passes through these devices, they make distinctive noises.
In China and Korea they've taken kite flying to an even higher level, that of "kite fighting." These are festivals where one or more battling kites are pitted against each other until a winner is declared or they crash.
Kite flying is also a great way to spend an afternoon with your kids, your family, or your friends. All that's needed is a little wind and a few hours practice. When buying a kite for the first time, check out hobby shops or kite shops and speak to someone familiar with the sport. You don't need to spend a lot of money on a kite, but do remember to buy one that suits your first time needs and your local wind conditions. A flimsy or poorly designed kite will be torn to shreds in minutes if the wind is too strong.
Once you've mastered simple kite flying, you may want to try "stunt" kiting. Stunt kites are more expensive and harder to control, but once you get the hang of flying one, you'll soon discover they maneuver and respond much more readily to your slightest hand movements.
Some die-hard enthusiasts even build their own kites. Hobby shops, kite shops, your local library or bookstore, or the Internet offer a wealth of information about building the perfect kite or getting in touch with other kite hobbyists.
Tips to remember while you're out flying your kite:
- Don't fly near people, particularly children.
- Stay away from roads. Your kite may crash and cause a serious accident.
- Avoid overhead power lines and NEVER fly a kite during an electrical storm the way Ben Franklin did.
- Stay away from airports while kite flying.
- Monitor wind conditions: winds that are too strong for the type of kite you're flying will tear it within minutes.
- Birds and pets are generally afraid of kites, so keep them in mind while you're out flying.
- Have fun, but play safe!
Thursday, February 12, 2009
Making Terra Cotta Candle Holders
Making Terra Cotta Candle Holders
Terra cotta clay flower pots aren't just for plants anymore...they are the key element in creating the lastest trend in candle holders! Learn how!
If you have any type of garden, flowers, or plants at home, chances are you know what a terra cotta pot is. These orange-colored clay planters are inexpensive and can be used for a wide variety of craft projects. One of the latest trends is to create candle holders. They make great gifts or can be themed to coordinate with your own home.
To create one of these little masterpieces, you will need a terra cotta pot and tray (preferably the 3 to 4 inch size), paints, a paintbrush, craft glue, rhinestones, stickers, flat edged marbles or any other type of decorations.
To begin, choose a base color for your pot and cover both it and the tray with 1-3 coats, depending on darkness and thickness. You may choose to make an all natural looking holder by keeping the terra cotta's natural color. Once the paint has dried, place the pot itself upside down and glue the tray right-side up onto the base. It should form a "bird bath" looking pedestal.
Now, choose your decorations. This is the part where you determine the "look" you want to achieve.
You can paint additional objects on the pot, such as flowers or holiday pictures. You can glue rhinestones or marbles around the edges. You can add beads or fimo clay decorations. You can decorate it with stickers or glitter. You may want to tie a ribbon or raffia around the base of the holder or along the seam made where the tray meets the pot. Make sure you use a strong craft glue and hold the objects in place until the glue is moderately dry, otherwise they will slide down the slanted surface of the pot.
Once you are satisfied with your decorations, place a tea light or small votive candle on top of the holder. Light it and enjoy your new decoration at home or wrap in colorful tissue paper to give to a friend!
Terra cotta clay flower pots aren't just for plants anymore...they are the key element in creating the lastest trend in candle holders! Learn how!
If you have any type of garden, flowers, or plants at home, chances are you know what a terra cotta pot is. These orange-colored clay planters are inexpensive and can be used for a wide variety of craft projects. One of the latest trends is to create candle holders. They make great gifts or can be themed to coordinate with your own home.
To create one of these little masterpieces, you will need a terra cotta pot and tray (preferably the 3 to 4 inch size), paints, a paintbrush, craft glue, rhinestones, stickers, flat edged marbles or any other type of decorations.
To begin, choose a base color for your pot and cover both it and the tray with 1-3 coats, depending on darkness and thickness. You may choose to make an all natural looking holder by keeping the terra cotta's natural color. Once the paint has dried, place the pot itself upside down and glue the tray right-side up onto the base. It should form a "bird bath" looking pedestal.
Now, choose your decorations. This is the part where you determine the "look" you want to achieve.
You can paint additional objects on the pot, such as flowers or holiday pictures. You can glue rhinestones or marbles around the edges. You can add beads or fimo clay decorations. You can decorate it with stickers or glitter. You may want to tie a ribbon or raffia around the base of the holder or along the seam made where the tray meets the pot. Make sure you use a strong craft glue and hold the objects in place until the glue is moderately dry, otherwise they will slide down the slanted surface of the pot.
Once you are satisfied with your decorations, place a tea light or small votive candle on top of the holder. Light it and enjoy your new decoration at home or wrap in colorful tissue paper to give to a friend!
Wednesday, February 11, 2009
Clay Sculpting For Beginners
Clay Sculpting For Beginners
Some of the basic methods for beginners of starting and casting a clay sculpture. There are a host of methods and techniques that one needs to be aware of in sculpture.
What do you need to begin your sculpture with? Firstly, the most common element used for sculptural work is ordinary clay. Try to obtain clay with a high degree of plasticity and " grog". Sculptural clay may be obtained form almost any crafts shop. Or you may like to begin with an alternative material such as plasticine that is not as messy as clay and has some advantages over the traditional medium. You will also need some basic tools. These are usually wire and wooden shaping tools, but this is not essential as ordinary spoons and knives can do the job as well. Experiment with different household utensils on the clay to see which suits you best. You will also need a board, a bag of Plaster of Paris and some strong boards and bricks- all easily obtainable at the local hardware store.
Setting Up. Making a sculpture requires a certain technical consistency. By this I mean a clear method. Firstly, place your clay on the board and manipulate the clay with your hands into the basic shape. This stage is important as you should get a "feel" for your medium by playing with it We will use the human head as our example in this article, although you might consider anything else as your first model. Be very careful at this stage to select a simple three-dimensional object as your model. The casting techniques described later can be difficult if you have a very complex model.
Once you have sculpted your head (It need not be "perfect" as the aim here is to learn the procedures of sculpting) you should build a clay wall around the finished sculpture leaving about an inch or two of space between the sculpture and the wall. The wall should also be about a half-an-inch higher than the sculpture. An easy method of building a clay wall is to make use of a roller-pin to smooth the clay into layers of about a quarter inch thick.
Once your clay wall is complete check for any openings at the sides or bottom of the wall. This wall must be watertight!! The reason for this will soon become clear. Now for the interesting part. Take a clean empty bucket or similar container and fill it to about a quarter of its volume. Open a bag of Plaster of Paris and slowly drop the plaster through your fingers into the water. This should be a slow process, as the plaster needs to be at the right consistency for the final casting. Once the plaster starts to form small mounds on top of the water you have reached the right mix between the plaster and the water. Gently put your hand into the water and seek out any clumps of plaster in the water and dissolve them with your fingers. The next stage is to slowly pour the plaster over your head. Now you will see why the clay walls need to be firm and solid. Leave the plaster to set. This will take about 2-3 hours and you should not move the sculpture during this time.
Once the plaster is hard, remove the clay wall and with a very sharp knife cut the plaster mould in half. (Please note that there is a more complex process of casting which involves casting each side of the three- dimensional figure separately, but for learning purposes this method should suffice.)
Now you should have two halves of the mould. In the cast is a perfect inverted replica of your sculpted head.
The final casting process is to fill the cast with some strong material. There are a host of materials that are used for the final product ranging form bronze to fiberglass. You may however use ordinary cement that will give you a durable finished sculpture. Once again there are a number of methods that can be used. The simplest method is to tie the two halves of the mould together with wire or rubber tubing and then to invert the mould. Pour your cement or mixture of cement and sand into the mould and leave to set for at least a day.
Once the cement has set you must open the mould by talking of the wire or rubber restraints and removing the plaster. This is easier said than done. If you are very lucky the mould should come off quickly. But usually one has to remove the plaster with a hammer and chisel, being very careful not to damage the cement sculpture beneath. Once you have your sculpture out of the mould, then you can use paint as a final finish. Of course, within the traditions of sculpture this is only the beginning. There are a host of other techniques. But if you successfully cast your first sculptural the rest should follow easily and with enthusiasm.
Some of the basic methods for beginners of starting and casting a clay sculpture. There are a host of methods and techniques that one needs to be aware of in sculpture.
What do you need to begin your sculpture with? Firstly, the most common element used for sculptural work is ordinary clay. Try to obtain clay with a high degree of plasticity and " grog". Sculptural clay may be obtained form almost any crafts shop. Or you may like to begin with an alternative material such as plasticine that is not as messy as clay and has some advantages over the traditional medium. You will also need some basic tools. These are usually wire and wooden shaping tools, but this is not essential as ordinary spoons and knives can do the job as well. Experiment with different household utensils on the clay to see which suits you best. You will also need a board, a bag of Plaster of Paris and some strong boards and bricks- all easily obtainable at the local hardware store.
Setting Up. Making a sculpture requires a certain technical consistency. By this I mean a clear method. Firstly, place your clay on the board and manipulate the clay with your hands into the basic shape. This stage is important as you should get a "feel" for your medium by playing with it We will use the human head as our example in this article, although you might consider anything else as your first model. Be very careful at this stage to select a simple three-dimensional object as your model. The casting techniques described later can be difficult if you have a very complex model.
Once you have sculpted your head (It need not be "perfect" as the aim here is to learn the procedures of sculpting) you should build a clay wall around the finished sculpture leaving about an inch or two of space between the sculpture and the wall. The wall should also be about a half-an-inch higher than the sculpture. An easy method of building a clay wall is to make use of a roller-pin to smooth the clay into layers of about a quarter inch thick.
Once your clay wall is complete check for any openings at the sides or bottom of the wall. This wall must be watertight!! The reason for this will soon become clear. Now for the interesting part. Take a clean empty bucket or similar container and fill it to about a quarter of its volume. Open a bag of Plaster of Paris and slowly drop the plaster through your fingers into the water. This should be a slow process, as the plaster needs to be at the right consistency for the final casting. Once the plaster starts to form small mounds on top of the water you have reached the right mix between the plaster and the water. Gently put your hand into the water and seek out any clumps of plaster in the water and dissolve them with your fingers. The next stage is to slowly pour the plaster over your head. Now you will see why the clay walls need to be firm and solid. Leave the plaster to set. This will take about 2-3 hours and you should not move the sculpture during this time.
Once the plaster is hard, remove the clay wall and with a very sharp knife cut the plaster mould in half. (Please note that there is a more complex process of casting which involves casting each side of the three- dimensional figure separately, but for learning purposes this method should suffice.)
Now you should have two halves of the mould. In the cast is a perfect inverted replica of your sculpted head.
The final casting process is to fill the cast with some strong material. There are a host of materials that are used for the final product ranging form bronze to fiberglass. You may however use ordinary cement that will give you a durable finished sculpture. Once again there are a number of methods that can be used. The simplest method is to tie the two halves of the mould together with wire or rubber tubing and then to invert the mould. Pour your cement or mixture of cement and sand into the mould and leave to set for at least a day.
Once the cement has set you must open the mould by talking of the wire or rubber restraints and removing the plaster. This is easier said than done. If you are very lucky the mould should come off quickly. But usually one has to remove the plaster with a hammer and chisel, being very careful not to damage the cement sculpture beneath. Once you have your sculpture out of the mould, then you can use paint as a final finish. Of course, within the traditions of sculpture this is only the beginning. There are a host of other techniques. But if you successfully cast your first sculptural the rest should follow easily and with enthusiasm.
Tuesday, February 10, 2009
Crafts With Feathers
Crafts With Feathers
Fun, unique craft ideas using molted parrot feathers.
Many bird owners find themselves with seemingly endless supplies of molted feathers once a year. These bright, shimmering treasures are too pretty to throw away. Here are a few craft ideas for using the cast off feathers of your pet birds.
Create gift vases or baskets: Stick a few parrot feathers in a pretty vase or incorporate them into small floral arrangements. Feathers add a touch of whimsy to an otherwise ordinary display.
Bookmarks: Cockatiels, with their long, graceful tail feathers, contribute lovely bookmarks. So do conures, macaws and Amazons. The beautiful colors of the feathers will be eye-catching peeking from the pages of a favorite book.
Head scratchers: The pointed end of the quill makes a great head scratcher! It's not too sharp and doesn't bend too easily so it's perfect for a little scratching action. You might even make a back scratcher if your pet bird is a macaw!
Mail enclosures: Try slipping smaller feathers into letters or cards, especially when writing to another bird owner. What a fun thing to find in your mailbox!
Dream catchers: Weave or tie different colored bird feathers into dream catchers. They add mystique and interest to any such craft.
Make a Fashion Statement with Feather Jewelry: Feathers can be used in earrings, incorporated into necklaces or bracelets, or fashioned into lovely pins. Stylish!
Hair decorations: You can make exciting hair ornaments with feathers. Simply purchase a large metal hair clip and some strong glue and beads or ribbons. See what interesting fashion item you can design.
Christmas ornaments: Glue feathers onto colorful Styrofoam balls, then insert sturdy hangers. Create one for each bird lover on your list.
The crafty things you can do with your bird's molted feathers are limited only by your imagination. Have fun!
Fun, unique craft ideas using molted parrot feathers.
Many bird owners find themselves with seemingly endless supplies of molted feathers once a year. These bright, shimmering treasures are too pretty to throw away. Here are a few craft ideas for using the cast off feathers of your pet birds.
Create gift vases or baskets: Stick a few parrot feathers in a pretty vase or incorporate them into small floral arrangements. Feathers add a touch of whimsy to an otherwise ordinary display.
Bookmarks: Cockatiels, with their long, graceful tail feathers, contribute lovely bookmarks. So do conures, macaws and Amazons. The beautiful colors of the feathers will be eye-catching peeking from the pages of a favorite book.
Head scratchers: The pointed end of the quill makes a great head scratcher! It's not too sharp and doesn't bend too easily so it's perfect for a little scratching action. You might even make a back scratcher if your pet bird is a macaw!
Mail enclosures: Try slipping smaller feathers into letters or cards, especially when writing to another bird owner. What a fun thing to find in your mailbox!
Dream catchers: Weave or tie different colored bird feathers into dream catchers. They add mystique and interest to any such craft.
Make a Fashion Statement with Feather Jewelry: Feathers can be used in earrings, incorporated into necklaces or bracelets, or fashioned into lovely pins. Stylish!
Hair decorations: You can make exciting hair ornaments with feathers. Simply purchase a large metal hair clip and some strong glue and beads or ribbons. See what interesting fashion item you can design.
Christmas ornaments: Glue feathers onto colorful Styrofoam balls, then insert sturdy hangers. Create one for each bird lover on your list.
The crafty things you can do with your bird's molted feathers are limited only by your imagination. Have fun!
Monday, February 9, 2009
How To Make Bird Toys
How To Make Bird Toys
Fun toys you can make for your pet bird from items found around your home.
If you've ever shopped for bird toys, you're well aware that you can shell out a pretty penny for something that your parrot may rip to shreds in a matter of minutes. But did you know that there are probably things lying around your house that would make fabulous bird toys? Here are a few things you might like to try.
Plain Old Paper. Paper items are great hits with birds. They can shred, tear and mutilate it to their heart's content. Offer clean coffee filters, the little cards that come in magazines (not the perfumed ones!), junk mail, newspaper, paper plates, unscented toilet paper rolls or the rolls from paper towels, you name it. If they can shred it, it's cool with them!
And here's a paper item that's not only fun, but what's inside is good for them, too. Small single serving size boxes of raisins make great toys. Tear the end open a bit, then hand over the entire box. This is more than a toy, it's a snack, too!
Plastic Soda Bottle Lids. Something that delights parrots to no end are the large plastic screw-off caps that come on two and three liter soda bottles. Birds will spend lots of time carefully removing every scrap of liner from the caps and dropping it in teeny bits onto the floor of their cage. For added fun, try giving them a bit of peanut butter in the cap. Now it's a fun snack holder! If you want to try this idea, make sure the caps have no metal on them that might injure your bird, and that the bottle caps are clean.
Doggy Chew Toys. Rawhide chews make wonderful bird toys! These take some work to shred, but give a parrot enough time and he can make mincemeat out of it. A word of caution about these items: Birds like to dunk things into their water. If you see that they've soaked their chew toy, you will probably want to remove it before it can become a soggy, possibly germy mess.
All Tied up in Knots: Tie old clean tee shirts or socks into knots and let the birds have a go! Almost any pet bird will enjoy gnawing on, preening, or swinging and climbing on these easy to make toys. Be careful not to leave too much fabric loose, though. You don't want your bird to get tangled up in it!
Birds, large or small, need lots of play time. By using some of these ideas, you can provide them with lots of fun things to play with, and save yourself some money at the same time.
Fun toys you can make for your pet bird from items found around your home.
If you've ever shopped for bird toys, you're well aware that you can shell out a pretty penny for something that your parrot may rip to shreds in a matter of minutes. But did you know that there are probably things lying around your house that would make fabulous bird toys? Here are a few things you might like to try.
Plain Old Paper. Paper items are great hits with birds. They can shred, tear and mutilate it to their heart's content. Offer clean coffee filters, the little cards that come in magazines (not the perfumed ones!), junk mail, newspaper, paper plates, unscented toilet paper rolls or the rolls from paper towels, you name it. If they can shred it, it's cool with them!
And here's a paper item that's not only fun, but what's inside is good for them, too. Small single serving size boxes of raisins make great toys. Tear the end open a bit, then hand over the entire box. This is more than a toy, it's a snack, too!
Plastic Soda Bottle Lids. Something that delights parrots to no end are the large plastic screw-off caps that come on two and three liter soda bottles. Birds will spend lots of time carefully removing every scrap of liner from the caps and dropping it in teeny bits onto the floor of their cage. For added fun, try giving them a bit of peanut butter in the cap. Now it's a fun snack holder! If you want to try this idea, make sure the caps have no metal on them that might injure your bird, and that the bottle caps are clean.
Doggy Chew Toys. Rawhide chews make wonderful bird toys! These take some work to shred, but give a parrot enough time and he can make mincemeat out of it. A word of caution about these items: Birds like to dunk things into their water. If you see that they've soaked their chew toy, you will probably want to remove it before it can become a soggy, possibly germy mess.
All Tied up in Knots: Tie old clean tee shirts or socks into knots and let the birds have a go! Almost any pet bird will enjoy gnawing on, preening, or swinging and climbing on these easy to make toys. Be careful not to leave too much fabric loose, though. You don't want your bird to get tangled up in it!
Birds, large or small, need lots of play time. By using some of these ideas, you can provide them with lots of fun things to play with, and save yourself some money at the same time.
Sunday, February 8, 2009
Kachina Dolls
Kachina Dolls
Painted wooden dolls known as kachinas are used in the religious training of Pueblo children. Learn more.
The Hopi word kachina means three things
(1) supernatural beings
(2) male dancers that represent these supernatural beings or
(3) painted wooden dolls which represent these dancers.
The importance of the kachina in religious life of Pueblo people is evident by the numerous depictions of kachinas on their masks, on pottery, as well as the abundance of kachina dolls.
Taken from the Hopi Indian word meaning supernatural, a kachina is the essence or spirit of a particular thing. The kachina is an ancient concept, but kachina dolls have only been made since the late 1800s. Kachina dolls produced by the Pueblo Indians, particularly the Hopis and Zunis, were designed for use in religious education. These dolls are not idols, and are not worshipped and prayers are not said to them. To ensure that the children were able to identify the most important spiritual powers, their friends and relatives carved small replicas of the kachina spirits as gifts. These first toys were hung over the child's cradle to bring good health.
For centuries authentic kachinas were carved by men out of dried pieces of cottonwood, a soft wood that's easy to carve and whittle. They used a knife and rasp to form the figure and a small piece of sandstone to smooth it. The ears, noses, horns, and headpieces were carved separately and then attached to the simply carved base. The whole doll was coated with kaolin, which is a white clay, and was later painted in bright colors. Feathers, furs, animal skins, yarns, beads, gourds, jewelry, and other objects were then added. In the 19th century Zuni kachinas were often dressed in real leather and cloth, while Hopi kachinas had their clothing carved out of wood. Kachinas that are naked or dressed in only a loincloth ususally predate 1900.
Many people are surprised to learn that a Hopi can have several hundred kachina dolls and question the need for so many. The Hopi point out that they don't understand why Roman Catholics have the need for 30,000 saints. This comparison is appropriate, for the functions of the saints and the kachinas are similar in their respective religions. Each serves as a go-between for mortals and their more important dieties. People unfamilar with Southwestern art often find the kachina doll grotesque in appearance. These people need to remember that the Hopi's first view of the crucifix may evoke the same reaction.
Today most of the older kachinas are in museums or private collections. Most kachinas produced today are for sale and not for Pueblo children. Even the Navajo began making kachinas for sale to tourists in 1985. Because of the technical expertise of the carvers, modern kachina dolls are usually elaborately carved. Newer dolls have dynamic carved shapes and exaggerated ears, snouts, or beaks.
It is not necessary for beginning collectors to buy mass produced dolls instead of handmade crafts. It is easy to buy modern kachinas from their Native American craftsmen, especially in New Mexico and Arizona. There are important differences between a handmade and a mass produced kachina. If a small kachina does not have a base attached to its legs, it could have been mass produced on a lathe. Further evidence of mass production is a small hole on the bottom of the doll. Kachinas made of clay, instead of cottonwood, are also made in large quanitites. Also, if the kachina feels unusually light, it may have a styrofoam,and not a cottonwood,base.
Many kachina dolls represent well defined functions, such as hunters, warriors, or even birds. One group, the clowns, represent the men who perform antics for the spectators at kachina dances to lighten up the solemnity of the event. Because there are so many kachinas available, kachina doll collectors often specialize in specific types. Studying the fascinating background attributed to a particular doll adds to the enjoyment of the collection. A display of kachinas is also an excellent reminder of the fine heritage of the Pueblo people.
Painted wooden dolls known as kachinas are used in the religious training of Pueblo children. Learn more.
The Hopi word kachina means three things
(1) supernatural beings
(2) male dancers that represent these supernatural beings or
(3) painted wooden dolls which represent these dancers.
The importance of the kachina in religious life of Pueblo people is evident by the numerous depictions of kachinas on their masks, on pottery, as well as the abundance of kachina dolls.
Taken from the Hopi Indian word meaning supernatural, a kachina is the essence or spirit of a particular thing. The kachina is an ancient concept, but kachina dolls have only been made since the late 1800s. Kachina dolls produced by the Pueblo Indians, particularly the Hopis and Zunis, were designed for use in religious education. These dolls are not idols, and are not worshipped and prayers are not said to them. To ensure that the children were able to identify the most important spiritual powers, their friends and relatives carved small replicas of the kachina spirits as gifts. These first toys were hung over the child's cradle to bring good health.
For centuries authentic kachinas were carved by men out of dried pieces of cottonwood, a soft wood that's easy to carve and whittle. They used a knife and rasp to form the figure and a small piece of sandstone to smooth it. The ears, noses, horns, and headpieces were carved separately and then attached to the simply carved base. The whole doll was coated with kaolin, which is a white clay, and was later painted in bright colors. Feathers, furs, animal skins, yarns, beads, gourds, jewelry, and other objects were then added. In the 19th century Zuni kachinas were often dressed in real leather and cloth, while Hopi kachinas had their clothing carved out of wood. Kachinas that are naked or dressed in only a loincloth ususally predate 1900.
Many people are surprised to learn that a Hopi can have several hundred kachina dolls and question the need for so many. The Hopi point out that they don't understand why Roman Catholics have the need for 30,000 saints. This comparison is appropriate, for the functions of the saints and the kachinas are similar in their respective religions. Each serves as a go-between for mortals and their more important dieties. People unfamilar with Southwestern art often find the kachina doll grotesque in appearance. These people need to remember that the Hopi's first view of the crucifix may evoke the same reaction.
Today most of the older kachinas are in museums or private collections. Most kachinas produced today are for sale and not for Pueblo children. Even the Navajo began making kachinas for sale to tourists in 1985. Because of the technical expertise of the carvers, modern kachina dolls are usually elaborately carved. Newer dolls have dynamic carved shapes and exaggerated ears, snouts, or beaks.
It is not necessary for beginning collectors to buy mass produced dolls instead of handmade crafts. It is easy to buy modern kachinas from their Native American craftsmen, especially in New Mexico and Arizona. There are important differences between a handmade and a mass produced kachina. If a small kachina does not have a base attached to its legs, it could have been mass produced on a lathe. Further evidence of mass production is a small hole on the bottom of the doll. Kachinas made of clay, instead of cottonwood, are also made in large quanitites. Also, if the kachina feels unusually light, it may have a styrofoam,and not a cottonwood,base.
Many kachina dolls represent well defined functions, such as hunters, warriors, or even birds. One group, the clowns, represent the men who perform antics for the spectators at kachina dances to lighten up the solemnity of the event. Because there are so many kachinas available, kachina doll collectors often specialize in specific types. Studying the fascinating background attributed to a particular doll adds to the enjoyment of the collection. A display of kachinas is also an excellent reminder of the fine heritage of the Pueblo people.
Saturday, February 7, 2009
Daruma Dolls
Daruma Dolls
The Daruma good luck doll - buy one, paint in an eye and make a wish. When your wish comes true, paint in the other eye. What is the significance of this doll?
A simple stall lines the entrance to the shrine. Like the stalls for festivals and markets, the wooden shelves are lined with traditional Japanese items and replicas for the discerning tourist. Unlike many of the items for sale, one seems too insignificant for words and yet sells very well with everyone – the daruma doll. For tourists, the doll is a cute, inexpensive and lightweight memento of Japan. For most of them, the true history and significance of this doll remains a mystery although some shops do include instructions and a very brief explanation.
Almost round in shape except for the flattened base, these simple, papier-mâché dolls painted red, with white and black markings, seem too ordinary for words. Yet the Japanese (and the tourists) buy them often in different sizes and from different places, painting in one eye and leaving them on a shelf in the hope that one day they can paint in the other eye. What is the significance of this doll?
The history
Daruma dolls are said to represent the priest Bodhidharma, a 6th century Indian priest considered the founder of Chinese Zen Buddhism. Bodhidharma is reputed to have spent 9 years meditating in a cave and praying without moving or blinking his eyes until he lost the use of his arms and legs so the daruma dolls do not have limbs or eyes. They are weighted at the base so that they do not fall over, reflecting perseverance and success after misfortune that Bodhidharma strove to promote. The red is the red of his priest robe and the name, daruma, is an abbreviated version of the priest's name.
The fantasy
New daruma do not have eyes painted on them as Bodhidharma used his inner vision rather than 'physical' sight. Instead, large white circles are painted onto the doll's head There are two theories about daruma eyes and luck. One claims that, when you make a wish, you should paint in the left eye (the left one when you are facing the doll) and when the wish comes true you should paint in the other eye. The other claims that, you should buy a daruma when something good happens to you and paint in one eye. You paint in the other when the next lucky thing happens. You are also supposed to start with a small daruma and buy slightly larger ones each time, taking the finished daruma to a shrine where it is burnt with other daruma as an offering. This practice is particularly common at New Year where daruma purchased the previous year are burnt at shrines and a new one is purchased for the incoming year.
Daruma are often bought before exams to hope for good luck, at New Year, hoping for success and other major events and occasions. Certainly the most public displays are the enormous daruma purchased by politicians who paint in one eye before an election and then, usually on television, paint in the other eye when they have won.
In Japan there is even a common saying about daruma: "Seven times pushed over, the eighth time it rises" (Nana (7) korobi (stumble), ya (8) oki (get up)). The daruma is intended to teach dedication and persistence, to rise no matter how many times we stumble or fall - to never give up.
Whether the daruma doll actually does bring good luck or not, there is no question of its popularity. Daruma fairs are held in Japan from the end of the year to March although you will find the dolls pretty much anywhere in Japan at any time of the year. The two largest fairs are held at Takasaki in Gunma Prefecture and at Fuji in Shizuoka Prefecture. So, the next time you have the opportunity, buy one and try out the luck for yourself!
The Daruma good luck doll - buy one, paint in an eye and make a wish. When your wish comes true, paint in the other eye. What is the significance of this doll?
A simple stall lines the entrance to the shrine. Like the stalls for festivals and markets, the wooden shelves are lined with traditional Japanese items and replicas for the discerning tourist. Unlike many of the items for sale, one seems too insignificant for words and yet sells very well with everyone – the daruma doll. For tourists, the doll is a cute, inexpensive and lightweight memento of Japan. For most of them, the true history and significance of this doll remains a mystery although some shops do include instructions and a very brief explanation.
Almost round in shape except for the flattened base, these simple, papier-mâché dolls painted red, with white and black markings, seem too ordinary for words. Yet the Japanese (and the tourists) buy them often in different sizes and from different places, painting in one eye and leaving them on a shelf in the hope that one day they can paint in the other eye. What is the significance of this doll?
The history
Daruma dolls are said to represent the priest Bodhidharma, a 6th century Indian priest considered the founder of Chinese Zen Buddhism. Bodhidharma is reputed to have spent 9 years meditating in a cave and praying without moving or blinking his eyes until he lost the use of his arms and legs so the daruma dolls do not have limbs or eyes. They are weighted at the base so that they do not fall over, reflecting perseverance and success after misfortune that Bodhidharma strove to promote. The red is the red of his priest robe and the name, daruma, is an abbreviated version of the priest's name.
The fantasy
New daruma do not have eyes painted on them as Bodhidharma used his inner vision rather than 'physical' sight. Instead, large white circles are painted onto the doll's head There are two theories about daruma eyes and luck. One claims that, when you make a wish, you should paint in the left eye (the left one when you are facing the doll) and when the wish comes true you should paint in the other eye. The other claims that, you should buy a daruma when something good happens to you and paint in one eye. You paint in the other when the next lucky thing happens. You are also supposed to start with a small daruma and buy slightly larger ones each time, taking the finished daruma to a shrine where it is burnt with other daruma as an offering. This practice is particularly common at New Year where daruma purchased the previous year are burnt at shrines and a new one is purchased for the incoming year.
Daruma are often bought before exams to hope for good luck, at New Year, hoping for success and other major events and occasions. Certainly the most public displays are the enormous daruma purchased by politicians who paint in one eye before an election and then, usually on television, paint in the other eye when they have won.
In Japan there is even a common saying about daruma: "Seven times pushed over, the eighth time it rises" (Nana (7) korobi (stumble), ya (8) oki (get up)). The daruma is intended to teach dedication and persistence, to rise no matter how many times we stumble or fall - to never give up.
Whether the daruma doll actually does bring good luck or not, there is no question of its popularity. Daruma fairs are held in Japan from the end of the year to March although you will find the dolls pretty much anywhere in Japan at any time of the year. The two largest fairs are held at Takasaki in Gunma Prefecture and at Fuji in Shizuoka Prefecture. So, the next time you have the opportunity, buy one and try out the luck for yourself!
Friday, February 6, 2009
Collecting Bobble Head Dolls
Collecting Bobble Head Dolls
Bobble or "bobbing" head dolls are a popular collectible. Collecting these strange toys has become a part of the mainstream sports hobby.
You can call them "bobbing head" dolls, "bobble head" dolls or "nodders", but everyone knows what you're talking about regardless of the phrase.
Not many folks haven't seen those springy-headed plaster sports dolls. Arriving via Japan in the early 1960s, the dolls were popular dashboard decor that didn't really catch on as a vintage collectible until the 1980s. Tap on their head and the doll's noggin bounced around crazily. That was the extent of the excitement with bobble heads but they were cute.
Many of the older dolls are worth several hundred dollars. Value depends, of course, on condition. Often these items suffered cracks and chips or broken springs. Those that didn't are in demand. Dolls were made for all four major sports, but baseball and football dolls seem to be the most popular.
Sports Specialties of Los Angeles distributed the dolls at sports stadiums throughout the 1950s. Some were made with square bases, others with round bases. The bases generally came with green, gold or white bases. Among the rarest dolls are those featuring black mascots, issued from 1962-1964. A complete set of 19 baseball dolls is worth $12,000. Some of the more common dolls are worth $50-100. Value depends on condition but also on the scarcity. Some of the miniature dolls or those produced with certain color bases weren't produced in large quantity and carry a premium price.
In recent years, a new wave of dolls was produced that hoped to capture a fresh audience and give the old-timers something new to pursue.
Bobble or "bobbing" head dolls are a popular collectible. Collecting these strange toys has become a part of the mainstream sports hobby.
You can call them "bobbing head" dolls, "bobble head" dolls or "nodders", but everyone knows what you're talking about regardless of the phrase.
Not many folks haven't seen those springy-headed plaster sports dolls. Arriving via Japan in the early 1960s, the dolls were popular dashboard decor that didn't really catch on as a vintage collectible until the 1980s. Tap on their head and the doll's noggin bounced around crazily. That was the extent of the excitement with bobble heads but they were cute.
Many of the older dolls are worth several hundred dollars. Value depends, of course, on condition. Often these items suffered cracks and chips or broken springs. Those that didn't are in demand. Dolls were made for all four major sports, but baseball and football dolls seem to be the most popular.
Sports Specialties of Los Angeles distributed the dolls at sports stadiums throughout the 1950s. Some were made with square bases, others with round bases. The bases generally came with green, gold or white bases. Among the rarest dolls are those featuring black mascots, issued from 1962-1964. A complete set of 19 baseball dolls is worth $12,000. Some of the more common dolls are worth $50-100. Value depends on condition but also on the scarcity. Some of the miniature dolls or those produced with certain color bases weren't produced in large quantity and carry a premium price.
In recent years, a new wave of dolls was produced that hoped to capture a fresh audience and give the old-timers something new to pursue.
Thursday, February 5, 2009
Scrapbooking With Paper Dolls
Scrapbooking With Paper Dolls
Scrapbookers, relive your childhood by learning to use paper dolls on your scrapbook pages! Create scenes and learn to accessorize your dolls.
Do you remember the countless hours you spent playing with paper dolls? I do. Playing with paper dolls was one of my favorite activities. What I liked best about paper dolls was that I could pretend to be a fashion designer. I could dress my dolls in whatever I chose to create, from flowing evening gowns to skimpy bathing suits. I could create plaids and stripes or I could choose to use solids, relying on my box of 64 crayons for inspiration. I also chose the hairstyles and hair color for my dolls. This helped to determine the different personalities for each doll.
Though I am much older now, I still get the opportunity to play with dolls, only now I use them to add a touch of whimsy to my scrapbook pages.
One way that paper dolls can be used is to recreate a scene from one of the photos on the page. For instance, on a page I recently completed was a photo of a group of people sitting around a campfire. I placed this single photo at the top of the page and triple-matted it for emphasis. At the bottom of the page, I recreated a similar scene.
I chose to use only one paper doll, and dressed her to match the little girl in the photo. I paid close attention to details because these are what give the dolls personality. I used long blond hair with bangs, a white t-shirt layered beneath pink, short-style overalls, and black sandals.
To create even more detail, I used a small snowflake punch to make small white flowers which I glued onto the overalls, some cut in half and placed right at the edge of the shorts to make the pattern look more realistic. A gold pen was used to detail the fastenings at the top of the shorts.
The face was kept simple - two small dots for eyes and a curvy line for the mouth but pink chalk was applied with an applicator to make realistic rosy cheeks.
But just creating a paper doll like that did not make for a complete scene. Using die cuts, I created a campfire and gave the doll a stick to hold so that she could roast marshmallows. Again, attention to detail paid off; I used a caramel-colored chalk to create marshmallows that looked good enough to be eaten!
Other possibilities for outdoor scenes could include the following:
Hiker
dress the doll in shorts and shirt, hiking boots, and a hat. Provide a walking stick and some die cuts of binoculars or a canteen.
Swimmer
dress dolls in trunks or maillots or fashion a bikini by using two heart pieces, punched from the paper of your choice. Accessorize by making a wading pool or giving them some die cut waves to frolic in. If they are on the beach, cut some towels from patterned paper and lay them on a sandy beach (maybe suede paper?) under a multicolored umbrella.
Soccer, baseball, etc. player
dress doll in shorts and jersey of team colors worn by someone in the photos, include player numbers if possible. Die cuts to include would be sports equipment or possibly a trophy.
Paper dolls may also be used without scenes on pages that contain more photos. Tuck the dolls in a bottom corner or over the edge of a photo. You may even just include the top half of dolls if you mount them on the very bottom of a page.
However you decide to use your paper dolls, be sure to attend to the details - hair in pony tails trimmed with punched bows, very curly hair or beards made from layering punched out swirls, jewelry designed from small circle punches, and so on. Give the dolls some props - a bouquet to hold, a book to look at, a ball to catch or kick.
Once you try using paper dolls on your scrapbook pages, the fashion designer skills from your childhood will return, enabling you to create fabulous outfits and accessorize them appropriately!
Scrapbookers, relive your childhood by learning to use paper dolls on your scrapbook pages! Create scenes and learn to accessorize your dolls.
Do you remember the countless hours you spent playing with paper dolls? I do. Playing with paper dolls was one of my favorite activities. What I liked best about paper dolls was that I could pretend to be a fashion designer. I could dress my dolls in whatever I chose to create, from flowing evening gowns to skimpy bathing suits. I could create plaids and stripes or I could choose to use solids, relying on my box of 64 crayons for inspiration. I also chose the hairstyles and hair color for my dolls. This helped to determine the different personalities for each doll.
Though I am much older now, I still get the opportunity to play with dolls, only now I use them to add a touch of whimsy to my scrapbook pages.
One way that paper dolls can be used is to recreate a scene from one of the photos on the page. For instance, on a page I recently completed was a photo of a group of people sitting around a campfire. I placed this single photo at the top of the page and triple-matted it for emphasis. At the bottom of the page, I recreated a similar scene.
I chose to use only one paper doll, and dressed her to match the little girl in the photo. I paid close attention to details because these are what give the dolls personality. I used long blond hair with bangs, a white t-shirt layered beneath pink, short-style overalls, and black sandals.
To create even more detail, I used a small snowflake punch to make small white flowers which I glued onto the overalls, some cut in half and placed right at the edge of the shorts to make the pattern look more realistic. A gold pen was used to detail the fastenings at the top of the shorts.
The face was kept simple - two small dots for eyes and a curvy line for the mouth but pink chalk was applied with an applicator to make realistic rosy cheeks.
But just creating a paper doll like that did not make for a complete scene. Using die cuts, I created a campfire and gave the doll a stick to hold so that she could roast marshmallows. Again, attention to detail paid off; I used a caramel-colored chalk to create marshmallows that looked good enough to be eaten!
Other possibilities for outdoor scenes could include the following:
Hiker
dress the doll in shorts and shirt, hiking boots, and a hat. Provide a walking stick and some die cuts of binoculars or a canteen.
Swimmer
dress dolls in trunks or maillots or fashion a bikini by using two heart pieces, punched from the paper of your choice. Accessorize by making a wading pool or giving them some die cut waves to frolic in. If they are on the beach, cut some towels from patterned paper and lay them on a sandy beach (maybe suede paper?) under a multicolored umbrella.
Soccer, baseball, etc. player
dress doll in shorts and jersey of team colors worn by someone in the photos, include player numbers if possible. Die cuts to include would be sports equipment or possibly a trophy.
Paper dolls may also be used without scenes on pages that contain more photos. Tuck the dolls in a bottom corner or over the edge of a photo. You may even just include the top half of dolls if you mount them on the very bottom of a page.
However you decide to use your paper dolls, be sure to attend to the details - hair in pony tails trimmed with punched bows, very curly hair or beards made from layering punched out swirls, jewelry designed from small circle punches, and so on. Give the dolls some props - a bouquet to hold, a book to look at, a ball to catch or kick.
Once you try using paper dolls on your scrapbook pages, the fashion designer skills from your childhood will return, enabling you to create fabulous outfits and accessorize them appropriately!
Wednesday, February 4, 2009
Making Mosaics
Making Mosaics
Mosaic is the art of using broken china, plates, glass, seashells, and just about anything else to create a work of art and decorate your home.
By definition, mosaic "is a picture or decorative design made by setting small colored pieces, such as tile, in mortar."(from the American Heritage Dictionary of the English Language.) In this millenium, mosaic is an art form using pieces of broken glass, china, seashells, etc. to create decorative items for your home. It is the latest craft taking the craft world by storm. Everyone is breaking plates and using them to decorate gift and home items.
To start creating your own mosaic, you will need to break some old plates/china, glass, or whatever you have around. You can also purchase some glass pieces, sea glass, seashells, buttons, and more at your local craft store. An adhesive is also needed. You can purchase tile adhesive or grout. Grout is available in many colors, too.
To begin, get a towel and put the china/plates or glass in the towel and break with a hammer. Continue until the pieces are small enough for your project. For example, if you were going to mosaic a picture frame you would need fairly small pieces.
When creating a mosaic, you can create a design or place the broken pieces randomly. For a picture frame you could use sveral different pieces or different colors and place them randomly along the frame.
To start, have your broken china, seashells, etc. in front of you. Using a tile adhesive, take a craft stick or other implement, place a small amount of adhesive onto the back of the piece. Attach it immediately to the frame as it does dry and harden. Continue this adhesive process until your frame is covered with the selected pieces of mosaic. Let the pieces set for a day until dry. Next, you may use the tile adhesive as the grout or you can use actual grout as that does come in different colors. Take a large amount of grout and spread it over the mosaic covering all the pieces. Be sure the grout fills in all the gaps. Again, let the grout dry according to the manufacturer's directions. After the grout is dry, take a damp cloth and wipe down the mosaic, cleaning up the pieces of china, etc., but being sure that the grout stays in the gaps. Let it dry and you have a homemade mosiac work of art!
Mosaic is the art of using broken china, plates, glass, seashells, and just about anything else to create a work of art and decorate your home.
By definition, mosaic "is a picture or decorative design made by setting small colored pieces, such as tile, in mortar."(from the American Heritage Dictionary of the English Language.) In this millenium, mosaic is an art form using pieces of broken glass, china, seashells, etc. to create decorative items for your home. It is the latest craft taking the craft world by storm. Everyone is breaking plates and using them to decorate gift and home items.
To start creating your own mosaic, you will need to break some old plates/china, glass, or whatever you have around. You can also purchase some glass pieces, sea glass, seashells, buttons, and more at your local craft store. An adhesive is also needed. You can purchase tile adhesive or grout. Grout is available in many colors, too.
To begin, get a towel and put the china/plates or glass in the towel and break with a hammer. Continue until the pieces are small enough for your project. For example, if you were going to mosaic a picture frame you would need fairly small pieces.
When creating a mosaic, you can create a design or place the broken pieces randomly. For a picture frame you could use sveral different pieces or different colors and place them randomly along the frame.
To start, have your broken china, seashells, etc. in front of you. Using a tile adhesive, take a craft stick or other implement, place a small amount of adhesive onto the back of the piece. Attach it immediately to the frame as it does dry and harden. Continue this adhesive process until your frame is covered with the selected pieces of mosaic. Let the pieces set for a day until dry. Next, you may use the tile adhesive as the grout or you can use actual grout as that does come in different colors. Take a large amount of grout and spread it over the mosaic covering all the pieces. Be sure the grout fills in all the gaps. Again, let the grout dry according to the manufacturer's directions. After the grout is dry, take a damp cloth and wipe down the mosaic, cleaning up the pieces of china, etc., but being sure that the grout stays in the gaps. Let it dry and you have a homemade mosiac work of art!
Tuesday, February 3, 2009
How To Make A Mosaic Tile Table
How To Make A Mosaic Tile Table
An easy, step-by-step guide to creating an artistic mosaic tile top table.
Before you pull out your wallet to purchase that expensive mosaic tile top table from your local art gallery, think about making your own instead. It's not as difficult as you might think! Simply follow these 6 easy steps.
1. Gather your materials and tools.
Here's what you'll need: table base, plywood, tiles, non-sanded grout, drill, nuts and bolts, sponge, wood trim, finishing nails, putty knife, level, tile adhesive, silicone grout sealer, hammer, towel, water, imagination.
2. Prepare your table base.
Once you find your table base you need to prepare it for your mosaic tile top. Fasten a piece of plywood, cut to size, to the table top using nuts and bolts. (I find it easy to attach the plywood to a wrought iron patio table that already has a grated top. This way you only have to drill trough the plywood and not through the top of your table base.)
3. Make a "Lip" for your table top.
Attach wood trim, cut to size, around the perimeter of your table top with finishing nails. (If your table is round, you may have to soak the wood in water or choose a different material to make it more pliable.) Make sure to leave enough space between the top of the plywood and the top of the trim to provide for the depth of your tiles. Remember, the purpose of the lip is to make sure you have a barrier for the grout.
4. Prepare your tiles.
The number of tiles you get will depend on the area of your table top. Buy enough so that you could completely cover the plywood if you wanted to. Place each tile in a towel and lightly hammer until the tiles break. Then place the pieces onto the plywood in your desired pattern. Once you have all of your tiles in your design, use the tile adhesive and putty knife to glue the tile to the plywood. Let this dry for 24 hours before moving on to the next step.
5. Grout and finish.
Use unsanded grout if you have left spaces wider than a few centimeters between your tiles. Pick a grout color that complements your tile and table and then follow the directions on the bag when mixing. Apply the grout to the table top, working it between the tiles and up to the lip barrier with the rubber level. Remove any excess grout from the tiles with a damp sponge. (Don't worry if a slight film remains on your tile, let it dry slightly, then buff it off with a towel.). Let this dry for at least a week before finishing up by applying a layer of silicone grout sealer.
6. Enjoy your new work of art!
An easy, step-by-step guide to creating an artistic mosaic tile top table.
Before you pull out your wallet to purchase that expensive mosaic tile top table from your local art gallery, think about making your own instead. It's not as difficult as you might think! Simply follow these 6 easy steps.
1. Gather your materials and tools.
Here's what you'll need: table base, plywood, tiles, non-sanded grout, drill, nuts and bolts, sponge, wood trim, finishing nails, putty knife, level, tile adhesive, silicone grout sealer, hammer, towel, water, imagination.
2. Prepare your table base.
Once you find your table base you need to prepare it for your mosaic tile top. Fasten a piece of plywood, cut to size, to the table top using nuts and bolts. (I find it easy to attach the plywood to a wrought iron patio table that already has a grated top. This way you only have to drill trough the plywood and not through the top of your table base.)
3. Make a "Lip" for your table top.
Attach wood trim, cut to size, around the perimeter of your table top with finishing nails. (If your table is round, you may have to soak the wood in water or choose a different material to make it more pliable.) Make sure to leave enough space between the top of the plywood and the top of the trim to provide for the depth of your tiles. Remember, the purpose of the lip is to make sure you have a barrier for the grout.
4. Prepare your tiles.
The number of tiles you get will depend on the area of your table top. Buy enough so that you could completely cover the plywood if you wanted to. Place each tile in a towel and lightly hammer until the tiles break. Then place the pieces onto the plywood in your desired pattern. Once you have all of your tiles in your design, use the tile adhesive and putty knife to glue the tile to the plywood. Let this dry for 24 hours before moving on to the next step.
5. Grout and finish.
Use unsanded grout if you have left spaces wider than a few centimeters between your tiles. Pick a grout color that complements your tile and table and then follow the directions on the bag when mixing. Apply the grout to the table top, working it between the tiles and up to the lip barrier with the rubber level. Remove any excess grout from the tiles with a damp sponge. (Don't worry if a slight film remains on your tile, let it dry slightly, then buff it off with a towel.). Let this dry for at least a week before finishing up by applying a layer of silicone grout sealer.
6. Enjoy your new work of art!
Monday, February 2, 2009
Cryptic Crossword Puzzle Clues
Cryptic Crossword Puzzle Clues
If you've ever been frustrated by the complexity of cryptic crossword puzzles visit this site for a simple explanation of the construction of cryptic crossword clues.
Cryptic crosswords are one of the most enjoyable types of puzzle, both to create and solve. Whether you are a potential creator or solver, the knowledge in how these types of crossword clues are formulated is essential. The following are guidelines on the types of clues you can use for cryptic crosswords, and the reasoning behind them.
One of the easiest of cryptic crossword clues to create is the anagram, which occurs in many other puzzles as well. It is where the solution words letters are changed to form one or more words in the clue. There must also be a word in the clue that suggests this word has to be rearranged.
CLUE: Gloves involved in mood change – smitten
ANSWER: Mittens
REASONING: The clue is 'gloves', is an anagram of smitten, and the change is suggested by 'mood change'.
Another common ploy for crossword clues is the word placed within a word.
CLUE: Let down, is flat indeed.
ANSWER: Deflated
REASONING: 'Let down' is the clue. The word 'flat' is placed in between the first 'de' and the last 'ed'. The 'in' part of 'indeed' suggests it should be placed there.
These types of puzzles also use a similar, but often more obvious ploy, the hidden word, formed when joining together the end of one word in a clue and the beginning of the next.
CLUE: Finished in fallen dedication.
ANSWER: Ended
REASONING: Finished is the clue. By joining the 'en' of 'fallen' and the 'ded' of dedication, you get 'ended'.
Cryptic crosswords also make use of an easier to spot device still, the word contraction, where the answer is found within one of the clue words. Again a part of the clue should suggest that the answer is found within another word of the clue.
CLUE: Gender in a part of Essex.
ANSWER: Sex
REASONING: The clue is 'gender'. The 'in a part of' suggests it is in part of the next word, which is 'Essex'.
Reversal of words is another method favoured by these types of puzzle. This is where a word is reversed in the clue to give the answer. Again a different word in the clue should suggest that a reversal is to take place.
CLUE: Tops back to end it.
ANSWER: Stop
REASONING: 'to end it' is the clue. By sending 'tops' back as the clue suggests you end up with 'stops'.
Abbreviations are often used as crossword clues. This is where the abbreviation of a well-known happening, institution, or place is used to give all or part of the answer.
CLUE: Contest a line during Victory in Europe
ANSWER: Vie
REASONING: The clue is 'contest'. The abbreviation for Victory in Europe is VE, with a line during, signifying an 'i' in-between, giving 'vie'.
Cryptic crosswords sometimes require you to substitute words or phrases in the clue for other semantically similar words, that when joined together give the answer.
CLUE: Fashionable, sense of timing as a whole.
ANSWER: Intact
REASONING: The clue is 'as a whole'. If something is fashionable it is said to be 'in'. If someone has a sense of timing they show tact. By joining 'in' and 'tact' together you get 'intact', as a whole.
Of course these types of crossword clues can be mixed together to form fiendishly difficult cryptic crosswords. It is up to the compiler to experiment. I hope you have plenty of fun constructing your puzzles!
If you've ever been frustrated by the complexity of cryptic crossword puzzles visit this site for a simple explanation of the construction of cryptic crossword clues.
Cryptic crosswords are one of the most enjoyable types of puzzle, both to create and solve. Whether you are a potential creator or solver, the knowledge in how these types of crossword clues are formulated is essential. The following are guidelines on the types of clues you can use for cryptic crosswords, and the reasoning behind them.
One of the easiest of cryptic crossword clues to create is the anagram, which occurs in many other puzzles as well. It is where the solution words letters are changed to form one or more words in the clue. There must also be a word in the clue that suggests this word has to be rearranged.
CLUE: Gloves involved in mood change – smitten
ANSWER: Mittens
REASONING: The clue is 'gloves', is an anagram of smitten, and the change is suggested by 'mood change'.
Another common ploy for crossword clues is the word placed within a word.
CLUE: Let down, is flat indeed.
ANSWER: Deflated
REASONING: 'Let down' is the clue. The word 'flat' is placed in between the first 'de' and the last 'ed'. The 'in' part of 'indeed' suggests it should be placed there.
These types of puzzles also use a similar, but often more obvious ploy, the hidden word, formed when joining together the end of one word in a clue and the beginning of the next.
CLUE: Finished in fallen dedication.
ANSWER: Ended
REASONING: Finished is the clue. By joining the 'en' of 'fallen' and the 'ded' of dedication, you get 'ended'.
Cryptic crosswords also make use of an easier to spot device still, the word contraction, where the answer is found within one of the clue words. Again a part of the clue should suggest that the answer is found within another word of the clue.
CLUE: Gender in a part of Essex.
ANSWER: Sex
REASONING: The clue is 'gender'. The 'in a part of' suggests it is in part of the next word, which is 'Essex'.
Reversal of words is another method favoured by these types of puzzle. This is where a word is reversed in the clue to give the answer. Again a different word in the clue should suggest that a reversal is to take place.
CLUE: Tops back to end it.
ANSWER: Stop
REASONING: 'to end it' is the clue. By sending 'tops' back as the clue suggests you end up with 'stops'.
Abbreviations are often used as crossword clues. This is where the abbreviation of a well-known happening, institution, or place is used to give all or part of the answer.
CLUE: Contest a line during Victory in Europe
ANSWER: Vie
REASONING: The clue is 'contest'. The abbreviation for Victory in Europe is VE, with a line during, signifying an 'i' in-between, giving 'vie'.
Cryptic crosswords sometimes require you to substitute words or phrases in the clue for other semantically similar words, that when joined together give the answer.
CLUE: Fashionable, sense of timing as a whole.
ANSWER: Intact
REASONING: The clue is 'as a whole'. If something is fashionable it is said to be 'in'. If someone has a sense of timing they show tact. By joining 'in' and 'tact' together you get 'intact', as a whole.
Of course these types of crossword clues can be mixed together to form fiendishly difficult cryptic crosswords. It is up to the compiler to experiment. I hope you have plenty of fun constructing your puzzles!
Sunday, February 1, 2009
Silver Coins Collection: How To Find Them
Silver Coins Collection: How To Find Them
Only silver coin collectors know about this; but you can still find 40% silver coin dollars in circulation today. Here is how.
Only coin collectors know about this; but you can still find 40% silver-clad half dollars in circulation today. Here is how.
Go to banks or savings and loan companies, and buy rolls of halves at $10.00 each. Buy as many as you can afford, the more you buy the more you stand to find. Take them home and check them. Keep all halves made before 1971.
U.S. silver dimes, quarters, halves and dollars minted in 1964 or earlier are 90% silver. Then Kennedy half dollars of 1965 through 1970 have a 40% silver content. The 1970 half dollar was not released for public circulation, so any specimen of it would be a mishandled collector's coin or one which had accidentally been placed in circulation. A coin-collection is stolen and the coins are just spent as regular coins, especially by teenagers who do not know their numismatic value. Sometimes these teenagers just snitch a coin or two and go for a malted at the local drug store or malt shop. So always watch all your coins.
These 1970 half dollars command a sizable premium. Half dollars after 1970 have no silver in them with the exception of the proof and mint sets (which were not put into circulation - they were for collectors only.) Make it a habit to stop at small town banks, and especially country stores and ask them if they can or will sell some half dollars. Usually they will.
Roll up all the halves that have no silver content and return them to the bank. Cash them in or trade them for more rolls or use them to buy groceries or other merchandise. So keep at it and don't get discouraged when you go through several rolls and don't find any. The law of averages will even it up for you.
If you would like to join the most enjoyable and profitable hobby in the world, visit your local coin shops and attend some coin clubs and coin shows. You should purchase a copy of A Guidebook of United States Coins, what the coin collector calls the RED BOOK.
You might also want to subscribe to a coin paper such as Coin World. Their address is: Coin World, Sidney, Ohio 45367.
Only silver coin collectors know about this; but you can still find 40% silver coin dollars in circulation today. Here is how.
Only coin collectors know about this; but you can still find 40% silver-clad half dollars in circulation today. Here is how.
Go to banks or savings and loan companies, and buy rolls of halves at $10.00 each. Buy as many as you can afford, the more you buy the more you stand to find. Take them home and check them. Keep all halves made before 1971.
U.S. silver dimes, quarters, halves and dollars minted in 1964 or earlier are 90% silver. Then Kennedy half dollars of 1965 through 1970 have a 40% silver content. The 1970 half dollar was not released for public circulation, so any specimen of it would be a mishandled collector's coin or one which had accidentally been placed in circulation. A coin-collection is stolen and the coins are just spent as regular coins, especially by teenagers who do not know their numismatic value. Sometimes these teenagers just snitch a coin or two and go for a malted at the local drug store or malt shop. So always watch all your coins.
These 1970 half dollars command a sizable premium. Half dollars after 1970 have no silver in them with the exception of the proof and mint sets (which were not put into circulation - they were for collectors only.) Make it a habit to stop at small town banks, and especially country stores and ask them if they can or will sell some half dollars. Usually they will.
Roll up all the halves that have no silver content and return them to the bank. Cash them in or trade them for more rolls or use them to buy groceries or other merchandise. So keep at it and don't get discouraged when you go through several rolls and don't find any. The law of averages will even it up for you.
If you would like to join the most enjoyable and profitable hobby in the world, visit your local coin shops and attend some coin clubs and coin shows. You should purchase a copy of A Guidebook of United States Coins, what the coin collector calls the RED BOOK.
You might also want to subscribe to a coin paper such as Coin World. Their address is: Coin World, Sidney, Ohio 45367.
Saturday, January 31, 2009
Collecting Rc Cola Sports Cans 1977-1978
Collecting Rc Cola Sports Cans 1977-1978
RC Cola issued cans with sports personalities on them in 1977 and 1978. Have some in the attic? Here's more on this piece of disco-era sports memorabilia!
For bored American youth, it was something to do while the adults were busy at the disco. Royal Crown (RC in the pop culture vernacular) jazzed up its soda cans with baseball and football players in the late 1970s. Collecting them was a messy, sometimes frustrating experience.
It began in 1977 when RC put together a set of 70 baseball player cans. The cans weren't numbered so you really had no idea how many comprised a set until you had a LOT of them. Once you weren't finding any new ones, you could pretty much figure your set was complete. Some collectors opened them from the bottom, trying to preserve whatever "value" they may have had. Others were happy to scrounge through the garbage cans and grab whatever cans thirst-satisfied folks had just discarded. Among the players in the set are several Hall of Famers including Johnny Bench, George Brett, Lou Brock, Rod Carew, Joe Morgan, Jim Palmer, Pete Rose, Mike Schmidt, Tom Seaver, Carl Yastrzemski and Robin Yount. An individual can of these players sells today for $5-10. A can of a common player can be had for $1-3, sometimes less in quantity.
That fall RC created an even bigger challenge. The company moved on to football players but this time they regionalized their set. Fans in the Upper Midwest got only players on the Packers, Vikings, Lions, Bears, Browns, Bengals, and Steelers. Those in the East got teams based there and so on. Approximately 100 cans were issued, including the most valuable, a can of a young Walter Payton that now carries a value of $15-20. Other subjects included Terry Bradshaw, John Riggins and Joe Theismann. Common cans run about $3-5 each with stars about double that. The grocery stores sometimes had a poster available listing all of the regional can subjects.
During the winter, the company made a brief and unspectacular foray into basketball, issuing a few basketball cans. This issue faded so quickly, there is no known checklist available.
Then came RC's last hurrah. In 1978, the company followed up it's successful baseball promotion with a 100-can issue of players distributed nationally. This time, the cans were numbered and again, there were an impressive number of top quality stars. Many from the prior year, but also cans of Reggie Jackson, Steve Carlton, Willie McCovey and the crown jewel, Nolan Ryan. A Ryan can today is worth $40-75 in good condition according to the Standard Catalog of Baseball Memorabilia.
RC lives on but the days of sports cans died quickly. Bad news for collectors who loved the chase but good news for Moms sick of dusting them and for Dads who needed the basement shelf space!
RC Cola issued cans with sports personalities on them in 1977 and 1978. Have some in the attic? Here's more on this piece of disco-era sports memorabilia!
For bored American youth, it was something to do while the adults were busy at the disco. Royal Crown (RC in the pop culture vernacular) jazzed up its soda cans with baseball and football players in the late 1970s. Collecting them was a messy, sometimes frustrating experience.
It began in 1977 when RC put together a set of 70 baseball player cans. The cans weren't numbered so you really had no idea how many comprised a set until you had a LOT of them. Once you weren't finding any new ones, you could pretty much figure your set was complete. Some collectors opened them from the bottom, trying to preserve whatever "value" they may have had. Others were happy to scrounge through the garbage cans and grab whatever cans thirst-satisfied folks had just discarded. Among the players in the set are several Hall of Famers including Johnny Bench, George Brett, Lou Brock, Rod Carew, Joe Morgan, Jim Palmer, Pete Rose, Mike Schmidt, Tom Seaver, Carl Yastrzemski and Robin Yount. An individual can of these players sells today for $5-10. A can of a common player can be had for $1-3, sometimes less in quantity.
That fall RC created an even bigger challenge. The company moved on to football players but this time they regionalized their set. Fans in the Upper Midwest got only players on the Packers, Vikings, Lions, Bears, Browns, Bengals, and Steelers. Those in the East got teams based there and so on. Approximately 100 cans were issued, including the most valuable, a can of a young Walter Payton that now carries a value of $15-20. Other subjects included Terry Bradshaw, John Riggins and Joe Theismann. Common cans run about $3-5 each with stars about double that. The grocery stores sometimes had a poster available listing all of the regional can subjects.
During the winter, the company made a brief and unspectacular foray into basketball, issuing a few basketball cans. This issue faded so quickly, there is no known checklist available.
Then came RC's last hurrah. In 1978, the company followed up it's successful baseball promotion with a 100-can issue of players distributed nationally. This time, the cans were numbered and again, there were an impressive number of top quality stars. Many from the prior year, but also cans of Reggie Jackson, Steve Carlton, Willie McCovey and the crown jewel, Nolan Ryan. A Ryan can today is worth $40-75 in good condition according to the Standard Catalog of Baseball Memorabilia.
RC lives on but the days of sports cans died quickly. Bad news for collectors who loved the chase but good news for Moms sick of dusting them and for Dads who needed the basement shelf space!
Friday, January 30, 2009
Building A Model Rocket
Building A Model Rocket
Model rocketry is a fun, safe, inexpensive hobby. Build one for yourself on a miniature scale.
Model rocketry is a fun hobby that is very safe when done correctly. When building your own model rocket, it is safest and easiest to use a pre-made kit.
It is possible to design a rocket, but for safety NAR, National Association of Rocketry, guidelines should be observed. Building a rocket from a kit is a fun and inexpensive way to ensure safety.
Estes and Aerotech are two of the main companies that sell model rocket kits. They range in price from $3 or $4 to hundreds of dollars. They also vary greatly in size. Some rockets are five inches, and some can be as tall as several feet. Rockets can also perform a variety of functions. There is one that can take a picture at the apex of its flight, and there are several that allow you to place a small item in a payload bay. Most rockets, however, simply go through four phases, launch, flight, ejection, and landing. To build a model rocket you will need several materials, depending on the kit you select, including a hobby knife, craft glue, model (plastic) glue, sand paper, ruler, pencil, and a paper towel. The pre-made kits will include specific guidelines that explain how to build the model.
There are several important parts to a well-constructed rocket. The rocket must have a launch lug, which is a guide shaped like a thin straw that helps the rocket fly straight up. The rocket will also usually have three or four fins that are spaced evenly around the body. These fins will stabilize the rocket in flight so that it will not spin out of control. It is important to make sure the fins are secured correctly.
The rocket nose cone should be attached to the body by a shock cord, but it should be easily removable from the rocket body. During the ejection phase, the nose cone will fly off the top of the body and will pull a streamer or a parachute out of the body to aid in the recovery of the rocket. Almost all rockets are designed for multiple flights, providing that you do not lose or damage your rocket.
To avoid damaging your rocket make sure that you have the correct engine. The pre-made kit generally lists the engines that are compatible with your rocket. Rocket engines are filled with solid rocket fuel that is ignited by an electrical impulse from a detonator. After burning all of the rocket fuel, the engine fires a charge into the rocket body that blows the nose cone off and enables the recovery system. The engines are made in many sizes to accommodate the different types of rockets. They have varying levels of power as well. For instance, the lighter the rocket, the less power you want the engine to have. If you use a powerful engine with a light rocket, you will probably lose your rocket. After having built your rocket, you are now ready to launch. You will need a launch pad and a detonator.
To successfully recover the rocket you need to insert several sheets of recovery wadding into the body tube to protect the recovery device from the ejection charge. After packing the recovery device and replacing the nose cone on the rocket, slip the rocket's launch lug over the launch pad's metal guide rod. You must then secure an igniter so that it touches the propellant inside of the rocket engine, and attach the detonator lead clips to the igniter to form a complete circuit. Your detonator should have at least a fifteen foot lead so you will be a safe distance away from the launch pad. When you launch your rocket make sure you are a safe distance from the pad. Do not launch your rocket on a windy day because not only could you lose your rocket, but you compromise safety. Make sure your launch site is clear of trees because rockets can be difficult if not impossible to recover from them. It will be easy to recover if you have a friend help watch the course of the rocket flight. Model rocketry is a fun, safe, and inexpensive hobby.
Model rocketry is a fun, safe, inexpensive hobby. Build one for yourself on a miniature scale.
Model rocketry is a fun hobby that is very safe when done correctly. When building your own model rocket, it is safest and easiest to use a pre-made kit.
It is possible to design a rocket, but for safety NAR, National Association of Rocketry, guidelines should be observed. Building a rocket from a kit is a fun and inexpensive way to ensure safety.
Estes and Aerotech are two of the main companies that sell model rocket kits. They range in price from $3 or $4 to hundreds of dollars. They also vary greatly in size. Some rockets are five inches, and some can be as tall as several feet. Rockets can also perform a variety of functions. There is one that can take a picture at the apex of its flight, and there are several that allow you to place a small item in a payload bay. Most rockets, however, simply go through four phases, launch, flight, ejection, and landing. To build a model rocket you will need several materials, depending on the kit you select, including a hobby knife, craft glue, model (plastic) glue, sand paper, ruler, pencil, and a paper towel. The pre-made kits will include specific guidelines that explain how to build the model.
There are several important parts to a well-constructed rocket. The rocket must have a launch lug, which is a guide shaped like a thin straw that helps the rocket fly straight up. The rocket will also usually have three or four fins that are spaced evenly around the body. These fins will stabilize the rocket in flight so that it will not spin out of control. It is important to make sure the fins are secured correctly.
The rocket nose cone should be attached to the body by a shock cord, but it should be easily removable from the rocket body. During the ejection phase, the nose cone will fly off the top of the body and will pull a streamer or a parachute out of the body to aid in the recovery of the rocket. Almost all rockets are designed for multiple flights, providing that you do not lose or damage your rocket.
To avoid damaging your rocket make sure that you have the correct engine. The pre-made kit generally lists the engines that are compatible with your rocket. Rocket engines are filled with solid rocket fuel that is ignited by an electrical impulse from a detonator. After burning all of the rocket fuel, the engine fires a charge into the rocket body that blows the nose cone off and enables the recovery system. The engines are made in many sizes to accommodate the different types of rockets. They have varying levels of power as well. For instance, the lighter the rocket, the less power you want the engine to have. If you use a powerful engine with a light rocket, you will probably lose your rocket. After having built your rocket, you are now ready to launch. You will need a launch pad and a detonator.
To successfully recover the rocket you need to insert several sheets of recovery wadding into the body tube to protect the recovery device from the ejection charge. After packing the recovery device and replacing the nose cone on the rocket, slip the rocket's launch lug over the launch pad's metal guide rod. You must then secure an igniter so that it touches the propellant inside of the rocket engine, and attach the detonator lead clips to the igniter to form a complete circuit. Your detonator should have at least a fifteen foot lead so you will be a safe distance away from the launch pad. When you launch your rocket make sure you are a safe distance from the pad. Do not launch your rocket on a windy day because not only could you lose your rocket, but you compromise safety. Make sure your launch site is clear of trees because rockets can be difficult if not impossible to recover from them. It will be easy to recover if you have a friend help watch the course of the rocket flight. Model rocketry is a fun, safe, and inexpensive hobby.
Thursday, January 29, 2009
Collecting World Series Programs
Collecting World Series Programs
The most popular types of baseball memorabilia to collect are World Series programs. These souvenir publications from sports' most storied event are historic and valuable.
It's the one souvenir baseball fans have trouble doing without. "You can't tell the players without a program!" shout program sellers at ballgames every season. That's true. It's also true that World Series programs are one item that pique the interest of today's sports memorabilia collectors.
The World Series began in 1903 and with the exception of the strike-plagued 1994 season, the American and National Leagues have battled for year-ending supremacy ever since.
Not surprisingly, programs from the early days of the Series carry the most value. A 1903 program from the Boston vs Pittsburgh series sells for $15-30,000! Condition, of course, is vital to value. Many scorecards or programs were folded in half and stuck in a pocket, sat on, or used to shield a head from raindrops. Those that were cared for and stored away from the elements retain their condition and their value.
Until 1974, each participating team produced its own Series program. Therefore, there are two programs for each year from 1903-1973 and just one when baseball took over the book's publication. Aside from the early programs, one of the more valuable editions is the 1919 "Black Sox" program. The year the Chicago White Sox were accused of throwing games for payments from gamblers remains a popular topic and the program from the games in Chicago sells for $5-10,000. The Cincinnati version is worth about half that in nice condition.
Programs from the 1970s to today can be found for less than $50.
The most popular types of baseball memorabilia to collect are World Series programs. These souvenir publications from sports' most storied event are historic and valuable.
It's the one souvenir baseball fans have trouble doing without. "You can't tell the players without a program!" shout program sellers at ballgames every season. That's true. It's also true that World Series programs are one item that pique the interest of today's sports memorabilia collectors.
The World Series began in 1903 and with the exception of the strike-plagued 1994 season, the American and National Leagues have battled for year-ending supremacy ever since.
Not surprisingly, programs from the early days of the Series carry the most value. A 1903 program from the Boston vs Pittsburgh series sells for $15-30,000! Condition, of course, is vital to value. Many scorecards or programs were folded in half and stuck in a pocket, sat on, or used to shield a head from raindrops. Those that were cared for and stored away from the elements retain their condition and their value.
Until 1974, each participating team produced its own Series program. Therefore, there are two programs for each year from 1903-1973 and just one when baseball took over the book's publication. Aside from the early programs, one of the more valuable editions is the 1919 "Black Sox" program. The year the Chicago White Sox were accused of throwing games for payments from gamblers remains a popular topic and the program from the games in Chicago sells for $5-10,000. The Cincinnati version is worth about half that in nice condition.
Programs from the 1970s to today can be found for less than $50.
Wednesday, January 28, 2009
Fantasy Baseball Tips And Advice
Fantasy Baseball Tips And Advice
Successfully draft and manage a fantasy baseball team. Winning tips to make you a contender in your league.
Fantasy baseball is a fabulous and fun hobby for any baseball fan. Being a contender in your league makes the game even more fun. The only way to do this is to manage your team with optimum effectiveness. In order to be a successful manager, you must forget about allegiance to your favorite teams and players. By doing so you will be able to manage your fantasy baseball team much like successful managers and general managers in Major League Baseball.
Your first responsibility as a manager will be to make your draft picks. You will want to be as well informed as possible when choosing the players that will make up your team. The best way to analyze prospects is to refer to baseball preview issues available from periodicals such as Sports Illustrated, The Sporting News and Sport. Other good sources can be found at on the internet sites of CNNSI, ESPN, CBS Sportsline and Fox Sports. These magazines and websites offer a wealth of valuable information and statistics.
When using such resources do not rely too heavily on how the player performed the season before. Take into consideration whether or not players were injured. Often times players will be overlooked in the draft because they are ranked very low. These rankings will sometimes reflect the fact that they spent a good part of the previous season injured. However, be careful not to pick those up who are historically prone to chronic injury. You will want to keep a close eye on these "injured' players during Spring Training. If they perform well and remain consistently healthy before the season, you may want to consider drafting them.
At the same time be cautious of other players' performance during Spring Training, as it may not be indicative of how they will perform during the regular season. One must remember that batters are often facing inexperienced pitchers and pitchers are often facing inexperienced batters. Also, many batters and pitchers are using this time to experiment with their perspective batting stances or pitches. There is one important question you must ask yourself when relying on Spring Training performance: "How often has Spring Training play been an accurate gauge to measure regular season performance?"
While Spring Training play does not always suggest regular season performance, remember to be weary of "star" players who are quickly reaching the twilight of their careers. It is true that they will in all likelihood end up being Hall of Fame members, but you need consistent, quality play to be a contender in your fantasy baseball league. You should especially avoid these kind of players if you are in a league where you purchase players and have a salary cap to maintain. "Old" stars demand high salaries that only result in negligible results. This tends to be especially true when it comes to "old" pitchers. On the same note; do not waste money or draft picks on "headliner" players that are newsworthy only because they hit homeruns. While these players are sought after by Major League Baseball general managers who want to sell tickets, they are of little use to you in your quest to attain the maximum amount of fantasy points. These "headliners" generally strike out a lot and are not very reliable fielders; their kind of performance will only result negative fantasy points.
While homerun hitters will end up causing you to lose points, pitchers can often do the same unless you are very careful how you play them. Your pitchers can be your greatest asset or your biggest downfall. When drafting your pitchers take into consideration their ERA and their health. If their ERA is high, but they still have substantial wins, stay away from them. If this is the case, their wins are probably a product of the skill of their offense, rather than their prowess as a pitcher. Look for pitchers with low ERAs who have the wear with all to go the distance. Generally, in fantasy baseball scoring, the more innings they pitch, the more points you will receive. Avoid pictures who are returning from a surgery or an injury. Often times it will take them some time to readjust themselves when coming off an injury. This kind of readjustment will often lose you points. Also, if you participate in a league that gives you an allotted amount of starts for your pitcher then you will end up wasting your starts. This is because pitchers that are coming off an injury usually pitch less innings during their readjustment.
An important variable to consider when deciding whether or not to play a pitcher is the team they are facing and what pitcher they are up against. For instance, if your pitcher, who is 4 and 2 and gives up five runs a game is up against a pitcher who is 6 and 0 and only gives up one run a game, it is a good idea to bench your pitcher. Your pitcher may be good, but there is no reason you should lose points when he is facing an impending loss. Also consider the power hitters your pitchers will face. If your pitcher is going to be pitching against a batter that has hit home runs against him in five of the last six games in which he has faced him, you might want to consider letting your pitcher sit for a game.
Just as you will want to bench your pitchers when they face superior pitchers and hitters, you will want to do the same with your hitters. If one of your hitters is facing a perspective Cy Young award winner who has four shutouts under his belt, you will probably want to bench him. Also, when it comes to hitters, you will have to use your own instincts to decide whether or not to waive them during a batting slump. Everyday that player is in a slump, you are losing points. It's up to you to decide when enough is enough.
To be a contender in your fantasy baseball league, the keyword is consistency. Once you've made a well-informed draft, you must strive to keep your team consistent. There is no room for team or player loyalties. You may say, "I'm only playing for fun." And to that I must reply, "Well, isn't it more fun to win?"
Successfully draft and manage a fantasy baseball team. Winning tips to make you a contender in your league.
Fantasy baseball is a fabulous and fun hobby for any baseball fan. Being a contender in your league makes the game even more fun. The only way to do this is to manage your team with optimum effectiveness. In order to be a successful manager, you must forget about allegiance to your favorite teams and players. By doing so you will be able to manage your fantasy baseball team much like successful managers and general managers in Major League Baseball.
Your first responsibility as a manager will be to make your draft picks. You will want to be as well informed as possible when choosing the players that will make up your team. The best way to analyze prospects is to refer to baseball preview issues available from periodicals such as Sports Illustrated, The Sporting News and Sport. Other good sources can be found at on the internet sites of CNNSI, ESPN, CBS Sportsline and Fox Sports. These magazines and websites offer a wealth of valuable information and statistics.
When using such resources do not rely too heavily on how the player performed the season before. Take into consideration whether or not players were injured. Often times players will be overlooked in the draft because they are ranked very low. These rankings will sometimes reflect the fact that they spent a good part of the previous season injured. However, be careful not to pick those up who are historically prone to chronic injury. You will want to keep a close eye on these "injured' players during Spring Training. If they perform well and remain consistently healthy before the season, you may want to consider drafting them.
At the same time be cautious of other players' performance during Spring Training, as it may not be indicative of how they will perform during the regular season. One must remember that batters are often facing inexperienced pitchers and pitchers are often facing inexperienced batters. Also, many batters and pitchers are using this time to experiment with their perspective batting stances or pitches. There is one important question you must ask yourself when relying on Spring Training performance: "How often has Spring Training play been an accurate gauge to measure regular season performance?"
While Spring Training play does not always suggest regular season performance, remember to be weary of "star" players who are quickly reaching the twilight of their careers. It is true that they will in all likelihood end up being Hall of Fame members, but you need consistent, quality play to be a contender in your fantasy baseball league. You should especially avoid these kind of players if you are in a league where you purchase players and have a salary cap to maintain. "Old" stars demand high salaries that only result in negligible results. This tends to be especially true when it comes to "old" pitchers. On the same note; do not waste money or draft picks on "headliner" players that are newsworthy only because they hit homeruns. While these players are sought after by Major League Baseball general managers who want to sell tickets, they are of little use to you in your quest to attain the maximum amount of fantasy points. These "headliners" generally strike out a lot and are not very reliable fielders; their kind of performance will only result negative fantasy points.
While homerun hitters will end up causing you to lose points, pitchers can often do the same unless you are very careful how you play them. Your pitchers can be your greatest asset or your biggest downfall. When drafting your pitchers take into consideration their ERA and their health. If their ERA is high, but they still have substantial wins, stay away from them. If this is the case, their wins are probably a product of the skill of their offense, rather than their prowess as a pitcher. Look for pitchers with low ERAs who have the wear with all to go the distance. Generally, in fantasy baseball scoring, the more innings they pitch, the more points you will receive. Avoid pictures who are returning from a surgery or an injury. Often times it will take them some time to readjust themselves when coming off an injury. This kind of readjustment will often lose you points. Also, if you participate in a league that gives you an allotted amount of starts for your pitcher then you will end up wasting your starts. This is because pitchers that are coming off an injury usually pitch less innings during their readjustment.
An important variable to consider when deciding whether or not to play a pitcher is the team they are facing and what pitcher they are up against. For instance, if your pitcher, who is 4 and 2 and gives up five runs a game is up against a pitcher who is 6 and 0 and only gives up one run a game, it is a good idea to bench your pitcher. Your pitcher may be good, but there is no reason you should lose points when he is facing an impending loss. Also consider the power hitters your pitchers will face. If your pitcher is going to be pitching against a batter that has hit home runs against him in five of the last six games in which he has faced him, you might want to consider letting your pitcher sit for a game.
Just as you will want to bench your pitchers when they face superior pitchers and hitters, you will want to do the same with your hitters. If one of your hitters is facing a perspective Cy Young award winner who has four shutouts under his belt, you will probably want to bench him. Also, when it comes to hitters, you will have to use your own instincts to decide whether or not to waive them during a batting slump. Everyday that player is in a slump, you are losing points. It's up to you to decide when enough is enough.
To be a contender in your fantasy baseball league, the keyword is consistency. Once you've made a well-informed draft, you must strive to keep your team consistent. There is no room for team or player loyalties. You may say, "I'm only playing for fun." And to that I must reply, "Well, isn't it more fun to win?"
Tuesday, January 27, 2009
World Series Press Pins
World Series Press Pins
World Series "press pins" are issued to members of the sports media covering the games in each city. Baseball collectibles of this type are quite rare. They are one item the average sports collector will have to do some scouting to find.
Each season, the two teams involved issue small, colorful pins to commemorate their team's appearance in the World Series. The pins aren't available to the general public and therefore, they can be quite hard to locate and very valuable to collectors.
Press pins have been issued since 1911. In the early days, they actually served as the credential for reporters to get into the games. In recent years, credentials were issued in laminated paper but the tradition of issuing press pins to accredited media continued. They are distributed with a media packet prior to the games to all reporters who are granted access to the Series.
The Philadelphia A's were the first to issue pins for the 1911 World Series. The pin was actually more of a medallion (sort of like a war medal), but by 1916, they had changed to just a pin-back lapel version. The pins typically have the date, the word "press" and a design of some sort on the front. They are often colorful, very historic in nature and just interesting to look at.
The first Series medal is worth nearly $20,000! Values remain significant for pins issued through the early 1950s but newer pins can be found for less than $100. Pins issued for teams that WIN the World Series typically have a slightly higher value than those issued for the runner-up. Pins created by popular or historically relevant teams also have a premium value. The 1955 Brooklyn Dodger pin is worth $400-500 while the Yankee version often sells for less than half.
Pins are printed several weeks before the post-season, meaning that some teams create pins but never make the Series. These are called "Phantom" pins. Teams often sold or distributed them to fans as a consolation and although not as popular as the actual press pins for Series contestants, they can carry significant value based on scarcity. While most Series Phantom pins in the 1960s sell for $100-200, the 1964 White Sox and '66 Giants pins are very scarce and carry a value of approximately $1,000 each.
Pins are also issued for All Star games. The first was for the 1938 game in Cincinnati and carries a value of $7-8,000 according to the Standard Catalogue of Sports Memorabilia. The baseball Hall of Fame issues similar pins for the induction ceremony in Cooperstown, NY each year and the NFL issues press pins for Super Bowl games.
While press pins can be expensive, they are an attractive, challenging collectible. One can complete a "set" of 2 pins from a recent series for a reasonable outlay and begin a hobby that is enjoyable and unique.
World Series "press pins" are issued to members of the sports media covering the games in each city. Baseball collectibles of this type are quite rare. They are one item the average sports collector will have to do some scouting to find.
Each season, the two teams involved issue small, colorful pins to commemorate their team's appearance in the World Series. The pins aren't available to the general public and therefore, they can be quite hard to locate and very valuable to collectors.
Press pins have been issued since 1911. In the early days, they actually served as the credential for reporters to get into the games. In recent years, credentials were issued in laminated paper but the tradition of issuing press pins to accredited media continued. They are distributed with a media packet prior to the games to all reporters who are granted access to the Series.
The Philadelphia A's were the first to issue pins for the 1911 World Series. The pin was actually more of a medallion (sort of like a war medal), but by 1916, they had changed to just a pin-back lapel version. The pins typically have the date, the word "press" and a design of some sort on the front. They are often colorful, very historic in nature and just interesting to look at.
The first Series medal is worth nearly $20,000! Values remain significant for pins issued through the early 1950s but newer pins can be found for less than $100. Pins issued for teams that WIN the World Series typically have a slightly higher value than those issued for the runner-up. Pins created by popular or historically relevant teams also have a premium value. The 1955 Brooklyn Dodger pin is worth $400-500 while the Yankee version often sells for less than half.
Pins are printed several weeks before the post-season, meaning that some teams create pins but never make the Series. These are called "Phantom" pins. Teams often sold or distributed them to fans as a consolation and although not as popular as the actual press pins for Series contestants, they can carry significant value based on scarcity. While most Series Phantom pins in the 1960s sell for $100-200, the 1964 White Sox and '66 Giants pins are very scarce and carry a value of approximately $1,000 each.
Pins are also issued for All Star games. The first was for the 1938 game in Cincinnati and carries a value of $7-8,000 according to the Standard Catalogue of Sports Memorabilia. The baseball Hall of Fame issues similar pins for the induction ceremony in Cooperstown, NY each year and the NFL issues press pins for Super Bowl games.
While press pins can be expensive, they are an attractive, challenging collectible. One can complete a "set" of 2 pins from a recent series for a reasonable outlay and begin a hobby that is enjoyable and unique.
Monday, January 26, 2009
How To Run A Fantasy Football League
How To Run A Fantasy Football League
Here is a simple explanation of how to set up and run your own Fantasy Football League.
You've probably heard of Fantasy Football. It seems to be growing larger every season. If you have any interest in pro football, fantasy football can make the season much more exciting. Anyone with a knowledge of football can play, man, woman, or child. That is one of the great things about it. One of the most interesting things I have discovered since beginning to play is that I find myself paying much more attention to every game each week. Before, I only took interest in games with teams I liked, but now, I am interested in every game.
I am going to describe to you how the league I am in is set up, how we get started, and how we progress through the season till the very end. There are many different ways you can run your league, this is only one example. Use what you like, throw out what you don't. To start off, we have a sort of board of directors who vote on issues brought before the league by the other coaches. This mainly is rule changes from season to season, but may include anything you can think of. If a coach has an idea for how to make the league better, he brings it before the board who then votes on the issue. Over the course of three years, we have had a few changes that we feel have made the league better and more competetive. The board has been known to give extra points to individual players for an extraordinary play. Any change that involves the league must be voted on by the board. The board as of this moment consists of three coaches. More may be added as we go, but for now, the original three are the board.
Your Fantasy Football season must start with a draft. We usually draft one to two weeks before the first game. I recommend getting yourself one or two of the Fantasy Football magazines you will find anywhere around this time. While you may know a great deal about football, these publications offer you a lot of information that will help you in making your selections. I like to get my hands on these one month before draft day.
Your next step is to make yourself a draft sheet. This is simply a cheat sheet for you to rank the players at each position, number 1 down to as far as you want to go. I usually try to have enough players ranked on my sheet to cover myself in case all of my players get drafted. For instance, if you have four coaches drafting and you each have to take three QBs, if you have twelve QBs rated on your sheet, that should cover you in that area. Of course, this sheet is only a guide. All coaches at some point in a draft took a gamble and went with someone they didn't have rated on their sheet. Call it a gut feeling! Rate the players as you would like to draft them. #1QB, #2QB, #3QB, etc. You get the idea. This sheet will prove invaluable on draft day, and all the time you put into getting it together will pay off in you knowing who you want at any given time. This is perhaps the most important time of the entire season, because if you don't draft well, it's hard to make it up later on.
So you've done all your homework and the big day has arrived. Draft Day! Arrive early and grab the best seat available. You should make yourself comfortable as this may take awhile. In our four coach league, last year's draft took around two hours to complete. While football and beer seem to naturally go together, take it easy on the suds today. You want a clear head when picking your defensive players in the later rounds. As a sneaky ploy, you might bring beer for everyone else. Not only will you be popular, you will the have an advantage of a clear head as the draft wears on. To set the draft order, we draw numbers from a hat or bowl. The coach drawing the number 1 gets the first pick, and so on down the order. I will give you the numbers of players we draft from each position, although you can draft as many as you want. 3 QBs, 4 RBs, 2 TEs, 5 WRs, 1 FB, 2 Ks. This is what we draft as far as offensive players. We always draft offense first, althought we have thought of maybe allowing the drafting of defense, special teams, and coaches at any time instead of in the later rounds. Drafting of defense is 1 DL, 1 DB, 1 LB, 1 Defense/Special team, and 1 coach. Any offensive player can be drafted in any round, so it you want that dominating WR, draft him first!
Of course, you won't get every player you wanted because every one else is wanting them too. If you can get 3 or 4 big scorers on your team, and supplement them with players who will put somehting on the board week-to-week, you will have a good base to start from. Once the draft is complete, you can make trades with other coaches if you wish. Otherwise, all players drafted must be held for 3 weeks into the season unless they suffer a season ending injury.
Scoring can be set up any way you like. Simply assign a point value to anything a player might do in a game. Touchdowns can count as 7 points, each pass caught can count as 1 point, and so on. We also give bonus points to QBs for passing for more than 300 yars, RBs and WRs for a 100 yard game. There are several programs available that you can set up to your own scoring rules that will crunch all the numbers for you. If you are going to have 5 or more coaches, I would highly recommend one of these. They can be found in most software stores or advertisements in most Fantasy Football magazines. They will do most of the work for you. If you are feeling adventurous, you can do all the scoring yourself. Currently, we have 2 coaches who volunteer to do the numbers for everyone. Make sure whoever is doing this is someone you can trust. They simply split up the other coaches and tally all of the numbers for the week. Of course, they are not allowed to do their own team. The primary publication used in doing the weekly scoring is USA TODAY, the monday and tuesday editions. All scoring should be completed and in the hands of the coaches by no later than friday. This will give everyone a chance to make trades before sunday rolls around.
Each coach should have a sheet with all of his players listed. This sheet should include enough slots to record each weeks scoring for the entire season. This will allow a coach to evaluate each player's performance from week to week at a glance.
Well, that's about it. Remember, the bottom line is to have fun. Just the game itself is great, but if you want to add a little incentive, have all of your coaches throw some money into the pot. Maybe a $5 entry fee, just to make things interesting. I know of one league that charges $40 to play, and $1 for each trade made throughout the course of the season. That all adds up to quite a healthy payoff if you are on top at the end of the year!
On a final note, be prepared for Draft Day. This is the single most important day of the entire season. It is the key ingredient to a winning team.
Here is a simple explanation of how to set up and run your own Fantasy Football League.
You've probably heard of Fantasy Football. It seems to be growing larger every season. If you have any interest in pro football, fantasy football can make the season much more exciting. Anyone with a knowledge of football can play, man, woman, or child. That is one of the great things about it. One of the most interesting things I have discovered since beginning to play is that I find myself paying much more attention to every game each week. Before, I only took interest in games with teams I liked, but now, I am interested in every game.
I am going to describe to you how the league I am in is set up, how we get started, and how we progress through the season till the very end. There are many different ways you can run your league, this is only one example. Use what you like, throw out what you don't. To start off, we have a sort of board of directors who vote on issues brought before the league by the other coaches. This mainly is rule changes from season to season, but may include anything you can think of. If a coach has an idea for how to make the league better, he brings it before the board who then votes on the issue. Over the course of three years, we have had a few changes that we feel have made the league better and more competetive. The board has been known to give extra points to individual players for an extraordinary play. Any change that involves the league must be voted on by the board. The board as of this moment consists of three coaches. More may be added as we go, but for now, the original three are the board.
Your Fantasy Football season must start with a draft. We usually draft one to two weeks before the first game. I recommend getting yourself one or two of the Fantasy Football magazines you will find anywhere around this time. While you may know a great deal about football, these publications offer you a lot of information that will help you in making your selections. I like to get my hands on these one month before draft day.
Your next step is to make yourself a draft sheet. This is simply a cheat sheet for you to rank the players at each position, number 1 down to as far as you want to go. I usually try to have enough players ranked on my sheet to cover myself in case all of my players get drafted. For instance, if you have four coaches drafting and you each have to take three QBs, if you have twelve QBs rated on your sheet, that should cover you in that area. Of course, this sheet is only a guide. All coaches at some point in a draft took a gamble and went with someone they didn't have rated on their sheet. Call it a gut feeling! Rate the players as you would like to draft them. #1QB, #2QB, #3QB, etc. You get the idea. This sheet will prove invaluable on draft day, and all the time you put into getting it together will pay off in you knowing who you want at any given time. This is perhaps the most important time of the entire season, because if you don't draft well, it's hard to make it up later on.
So you've done all your homework and the big day has arrived. Draft Day! Arrive early and grab the best seat available. You should make yourself comfortable as this may take awhile. In our four coach league, last year's draft took around two hours to complete. While football and beer seem to naturally go together, take it easy on the suds today. You want a clear head when picking your defensive players in the later rounds. As a sneaky ploy, you might bring beer for everyone else. Not only will you be popular, you will the have an advantage of a clear head as the draft wears on. To set the draft order, we draw numbers from a hat or bowl. The coach drawing the number 1 gets the first pick, and so on down the order. I will give you the numbers of players we draft from each position, although you can draft as many as you want. 3 QBs, 4 RBs, 2 TEs, 5 WRs, 1 FB, 2 Ks. This is what we draft as far as offensive players. We always draft offense first, althought we have thought of maybe allowing the drafting of defense, special teams, and coaches at any time instead of in the later rounds. Drafting of defense is 1 DL, 1 DB, 1 LB, 1 Defense/Special team, and 1 coach. Any offensive player can be drafted in any round, so it you want that dominating WR, draft him first!
Of course, you won't get every player you wanted because every one else is wanting them too. If you can get 3 or 4 big scorers on your team, and supplement them with players who will put somehting on the board week-to-week, you will have a good base to start from. Once the draft is complete, you can make trades with other coaches if you wish. Otherwise, all players drafted must be held for 3 weeks into the season unless they suffer a season ending injury.
Scoring can be set up any way you like. Simply assign a point value to anything a player might do in a game. Touchdowns can count as 7 points, each pass caught can count as 1 point, and so on. We also give bonus points to QBs for passing for more than 300 yars, RBs and WRs for a 100 yard game. There are several programs available that you can set up to your own scoring rules that will crunch all the numbers for you. If you are going to have 5 or more coaches, I would highly recommend one of these. They can be found in most software stores or advertisements in most Fantasy Football magazines. They will do most of the work for you. If you are feeling adventurous, you can do all the scoring yourself. Currently, we have 2 coaches who volunteer to do the numbers for everyone. Make sure whoever is doing this is someone you can trust. They simply split up the other coaches and tally all of the numbers for the week. Of course, they are not allowed to do their own team. The primary publication used in doing the weekly scoring is USA TODAY, the monday and tuesday editions. All scoring should be completed and in the hands of the coaches by no later than friday. This will give everyone a chance to make trades before sunday rolls around.
Each coach should have a sheet with all of his players listed. This sheet should include enough slots to record each weeks scoring for the entire season. This will allow a coach to evaluate each player's performance from week to week at a glance.
Well, that's about it. Remember, the bottom line is to have fun. Just the game itself is great, but if you want to add a little incentive, have all of your coaches throw some money into the pot. Maybe a $5 entry fee, just to make things interesting. I know of one league that charges $40 to play, and $1 for each trade made throughout the course of the season. That all adds up to quite a healthy payoff if you are on top at the end of the year!
On a final note, be prepared for Draft Day. This is the single most important day of the entire season. It is the key ingredient to a winning team.
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